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The best possible explanation about the land, the animals, the camps and level of service that Great Canadian Wildlife Adventures provides is best described by our valued customers who have undergone their own journeys to the Arctic with us. The following testimonials are for real. If you are seriously considering joining us on our trips, please feel free to contact us, and we will be pleased to put you directly in touch with those who have attended our trips over the past few seasons - and then let THEM tell you about the wonderful experiences that Great Canadian Wildlife Adventures has to offer you... |
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Current Customer Testimonials
"As a boy I had dreamed of traveling to the far reaches of the Canadian north. So in the fall of 2009 the opportunity of a lifetime became a reality. I was on my way to the "Barrenlands" of Nunavut. I traveled with my friend Ron Burmeister who had explored the vast wilderness with Tundra Tom and his guides several times before. The flights in to this pristine wilderness was dotted with clear water lakes and the rich colors of the tundra. The first thing that I realized is how immensely large this region is. Our base camp was set up in a strategic location to see caribou,musk ox and many other animal species of the north. The camp was set up to make our stay in the arctic as comfortable as possible. Sleeping accommodations in our tents and the food were excellent. Both exceeding my expectations. I have traveled to remote area of Alaska to the rainforests of central America and I was very happy with the camp life here. We learned of ancient civilizations that had been here and also were taught the art of dancing in the caribou. Tom and his guides also taught us about the unique landscape and its flora. This area called the Barrenlands is the farthest thing from barren. It's landscapes is filled with endless photographic opportunities. The tundra is a macro heaven, colorful images of plant life were abound. As I lay on my stomach to photograph these jewels of the arctic ground, my scents of smell was enveloped by the greatest fragrance of plant life I had ever taken in. Countless species of berries were ripe for eating. Our days were filled with hikes,plane rides and boat exploration for wildlife and history of this ancient realm. After long days on the Tundra we could always look forward to a feast every night to fill our hunger. Every night the sunset was an incredible hues of purple,reds and oranges which reflected on the water and tundra with its magnificent light. At night the photographic opportunities began again, the Aurora Borealis was in full force .Climbing out of my sleeping bag at 1;00 am was well worth it. I spent several hours each night capturing this awesome display of light and color. At times I would be surrounded by the northern lights confused on which direction to point the camera. With the silence of night time in the arctic you could almost here the light's dancing in the sky. We hiked out into the tundra in search of Musk Ox, what a prime evil feeling stalking a creature that survived the Pleistocene era over 10,000 years ago. I was armed only with my camera. On this day we had located a herd of over 60 Musk Ox. Photographing from a rock blind we witnessed the herd resting,feeding and even some bulls being territorial toward each other, great natural behavior images were taken of this. Our motto of not disturbing this great mammal was held up by our guide. We were able to witness and photograph the Musk ox and caribou without disturbing their daily battle of life in one of the harshest places to live on earth. Laughter and a great sense of place were an everyday occurrence here. My travel partners and my guides were only strangers for a short time before the arctic brought us all together. All of us knowing that this trip would change our views of this great place and our place in the world. All of my dreams and expectations of this land and wildlife were realized with Tom and his wonderful staff they are all very professional and that is definitely what you want at an outpost like this. I hope to return to this magical land with Tom. This is a short poem of my time there:"
"As I stand in the Barrenlands with a cool wind in my face,
only the sounds of nature fill this place.
Bird's on a wing fill the arctic skies,
the howl of a lone wolf are it's midnight cries.
Colors of the tundra fade green to red,
and the Aurora Borealis is my night light in bed.
My body and soul would no longer need to roam
for I knew this is a place, I could call home.
For this magnificent land has forever changed my way,
this was a journey I remember everyday."
- David C. Olson
David C. Olson Photography
Rockford, IL, USA
"The 'Caribou, Autumn Colours & Aurora' trip was my second to Canada but my first to the “Barrenlands” and it certainly won’t be my last! Having never seen landscape like this was certainly an experience I will not forget. The wildlife was amazing and I felt lucky to see such variety. I was greeted with a much needed steaming hot cup of tea to warm my ‘freezing’ cold body when I arrived at the camp and within minutes my blood was pumping and I was ready to photograph! I noticed the campsite was safely guarded by a couple of SicSic (Arctic Ground Squirrels) which I thought were the cutest little creatures and couldn’t stop taking photos of them. Sometimes they seemed to be modelling for the camera and it was a bit of a contest to see who was the better model. After exploring the area and feeling renewed from all the fresh tundra air I was blessed with the most beautiful sunset. I was so excited and couldn’t wait to see what else the amazing Barren Lands had to offer."
"The next day (after photographing more Sic-Sic), Steve (aka Silvertongue) took me hiking. After learning a great deal about the amazing plants and the animals I encountered my first Caribou. I was so excited I could hardly breathe. He showed me how to “Dance with the Caribou” so I could get a bit closer to get a few photographs. Wow! It was awesome! Even the nights had something to offer – my first ever sightings of the Aurora Borealis –something we don’t see down under in Australia. It was the middle of the night, my hands and feet were numb, I was shivering beyond belief and I felt sick from being so cold but I didn’t care; I was actually out here in the middle of the tundra photographing the Northern Lights. "
"Every day offered something new – Snow Geese, Rock Ptarmigan, herds of Caribou, Canada Geese, Sandhill Cranes, SicSic, Arctic Hare, amazing lichen and moss, even yummy berries. Well, everything except Musk Oxen. They seemed to have disappeared. We hiked for miles looking for them, we even flew for miles looking for them – nothing. But on the very last morning I was woken to be told that the Musk Oxen were slowly moving in towards our camp. I have never jumped out of bed so quickly. I couldn’t believe my luck. We photographed them from our campsite until they realised they would have to go through the campsite to continue on, so they turned around and headed off in the other direction. "
"Later that day while waiting to be collected to fly back to Baker Lake, I decided to try and get a few more photos of the mighty Musk Oxen. I positioned myself against the rocky hill out of sight, I took shot after shot until I heard a rather loud “grunt” from behind. I turned around to find a very large male Musk Oxen staring straight at me just a few steps away. It scared the living daylights out of me. I quickly scrambled up the hillside and hid behind a big rock leaving my tripod to fend for itself. I remember thinking, ‘I know I wanted to see a Musk Ox up close, but not up close and personal!’ It was an experience that I will never forget and now makes me giggle every time I think about it. By the end of the trip, thanks to the Great Canadian Wilderness Adventures, I felt like an expert at dancing with the Caribou and even mingling with the Musk Oxen."
"To be one with nature is a concept that most of us (read: “city dwellers”) dream euphemistically about. We have no real concept of the true meaning of it. It isn’t until you witness a pair of peregrine falcons literally enjoying powerful updrafts, flying as if they are performing acrobatic stunts at a military air show, to show how it is really to be done, starting in a dive – pulling their wings tight to their body – speeding ever so fast downward in a vertical dive – and then heading straight upward in a powerful vertical rise, only to go headfirst into the next dive – at the same time vocalizing a long joyful wheeee sound every time the new descend was starting. Was this show put on for us? - probably not – but rather to show their offspring the beauty of flight – but what a chance for us to be one with nature – to be able to share a bird’s pleasure for flight!
To apply stealth tactics to get close to a caribou cow and calf, but then to learn to play on the caribou’s instinct for curiosity and in effect using a form of psychology to enable to get the images that you are after, you are learning to become one with nature. The biggest message of being one with nature though was when nature showed us all that she was in total and absolute control!
When, searching the whole day for the herd of muskoxen that were seen the day before, and not finding them, mother nature has the whole herd pass by the camp the next morning within a hundred feet. She was toying with us though by bridling the arrival of the herd with winds of over 60 miles per hour forcing us to be more concerned with the logistics of the campsite rather photographing the herd. To be fair to big Momma though, she brought her whole herd back on the morning of our departure for ample photo opportunity – a guilt trip by mother nature? – I wonder!! The food in camp was wholesome, and the shelter was adequate, but the understanding and love of the north by Tom and his crew, and what it has to offer was examplitory. With their expertise, not only did we get the images that we longed for, we also got to be one with nature! What a bargain!!"
Shirley & Horst Baender
Moosejaw, SK, Canada
"Hi Tom, I made it home safely. I made my other appointments for Mt. Assiniboine in time and had a good time watching and photographing Grizzly Bears. In particular one female with 3 cubs from this year - I could watch them relatively closely for about 3 hours in the afternoon of my second day there. "Back to Nunavut and the Caribou Trip: it was my first time in the tundra and it took me some time to adapt to that situation. It took me as well some time back home to adapt to normal life after the Tundra. I learned Tundra is something special - and basically all people I was taking to when back home have totally wrong ideas about what Tundra is all about. ""I was pleased with the opportunities to watch and photograph Caribous and Muskoxen as well as all the other creatures. I have got excellent pictures! I was pleased with the northern lights, the landscape, the autumn colours and the Inuit history I learned from you, David and out of books of your library. Of course I would have liked very much to see some wolves or foxes as well. But you can't have it all."“…You and both Steve’s did do there best to make camp life more comfortable. The food was good - the fish I liked best. Please make sure that coffee is never going to be on short supply. “..Thank you Tom for the opportunity to learn about the Tundra and about the Dance with Caribou. It was a great time and I would not have wanted to miss the experience and excitement of the Tundra.”
- Karlheinz Berg
Langenhagen, Germany
"Gday Tom! Sorry for not writing sooner, but I’ve just arrived home after 6 months of travelling to wonderful places like Baker Lake. I really enjoyed the trip – every moment of it! Just wandering around the tundra was a real treat for me, and seeing the muskox and caribou and aurora was more than I could have ever wished for. Many thanks to you and the 2 Steve’s for making it such an enjoyable trip. I’m not sure if I’ll ever get back that way again, but if I do I’ll be sure to check the websites to see whats on!"
- Annette Stewart
Port Mebourne, Australia
- Martin Zeilig - Writer
Winnipeg, MB (2006 & 2009)
"I had a fabulous time at the camp, caught about 25 lake trout on the fly, saw the animals, a perigrine falcon take out a snow goose in mid-air, and thoroughly enjoyed my camp buddies and the two Steves. This group really bonded, and we are still sharing emails and pictures. Your readings were inspiring and set the stage. The Arctic continues to be holy ground for me. I will review some notes I have made and write a piece for you. Most of it will be about fishing but that area of the world cannot be beat. I will attach two articles, both now published, in which I describe my perceptions and experiences of the Arctic. I will not write your article in the religious manner these were written. I hope you will enjoy them."
- Dr. Ron Burmeister
Rockford, IL, USA (1983, 85, 98, 2011)
"I first encountered the Barrren Lands in 1999 on a 2 week canoe trip on the Clark-Thelon rivers from Great Canadian Wilderness Adventures. First off, they were anything but bare. We encountered millions of black flies and mosquitoes, but I was prepared with my trusty bug shirt and many bottles of Deet." "Many of my photos were shot from my canoe as we paddled. On one occasion our guide spotted a musk ox and we landed and stalked it. That was an adventure! I wished then that we were able to do that more. While we did not see one, not one caribou, I was still very happy with the trip. Just the beauty of it all was amazing. We were immersed in the country and it's history. I got to visit the final camp site of Hornby and his companions and saw the remains of the cabin. It was a solemn moment standing there having read how they died one by one from starvation. When I got back home I signed up for a two-week photography trip for 2000. Due to personal reasons, I was not able to make the trip until this year (2009). Tom was cool about letting me use my deposit 9 years later."
"When I got to the camp site on Chesterfield Inlet in 2009, the first thing I did was go for a walk. It felt like I was home. Not 10 minutes into my walk I encountered a caribou. I did the dance, and it stopped and looked at me, and I got my first picture of a caribou! This was an amazing trip! After a boat ride to look for musk ox we saw only one. One the way back it got stormy and we were all soaked. The next day, a herd of musk ox sauntered into camp! We were in awe of them. On another occasion, Tom used his plane to look for musk ox as one client came for the last week all the way from Australia, and wanted to see them. After a 2 hour flight, he did not see any. The next day as we were all helping take the camp down for the year, a big herd of musk ox came not once but twice into camp. I stood by my tent and got some great shots. We were all extremely lucky with the quantity of animals we encountered. Some mornings I would get up early and take a chair to a spot overlooking the stream that ran through camp, and sit there waiting for the morning show of caribou strolling through!
"I feel very much at home in the Barrens. My soul feels cleansed and I feel totally relaxed. But not until the second week when I acclimated to 'Tundra Time'. Simply put, Tundra Time means, "It will happen when it happens. Or not... there is no rushing nature or the weather - just enjoy what you get and you will find contentment."
- Barry Girard
Chicago, Illiniois (1999 & 2010)
"I remember last summer as we sat hunkered down in wind at camp – appreciative of it’s amenities of shelter, Tom’s hospitality and an excellent Northern ‘Library’ with books the likes of “Those Were the Days That I Lived and Loved” by Gus D’Aoust, “Galen Rowell’s Inner Game of Outdoor Photography”, “Land of Feast and Famine” by Helge Ingstad, and “Sport and Travel in the Northland of Canada” by David T. Hanbury. Jim Allan and myself were on a Barrenlands holiday, seeing the country from Jim’s float plane. Having canoed the Thelon river with a group 2 years ago and appreciating the area for its wildlife with video and photo opportunities, it was nice to get back. It’s also nice to do more flying thought the area. The history of my father flying Bell 47’s in 1954 and 1955 in Operation Baker and Operation Thelon (the Geological mapping of the area with the G.S.C. – Geological survey of Canada- in those years) and my own flying 30 years ago with the G.S.C. in the Schultz lake area make the Thelon even more memorable. A big Low pressure system to the NE had us staying at camp here for the protection of the plane for a few days and a continued chance to see the country. We are enjoying the aura of this camp and the aura of the North!"
THE BARRENLANDS
"To you this windy high North day
The sweeping Barrenlands so clear
You who gaze so free and ‘come what may’
Cloud shadows, tundra, the North’s head rears
And greets you sun, air and land enduring
Cherish her lessons and suffer her might
The North expanse sings sweet and luring
And pray her love will treat you right
Obey in praise, rule not in thought
Love the North as you’ve been taught."
Dr. Brad Armstrong / Hinton, AB Canada
"Hi Tom: As promised here are a few pictures. This was hard. There are so many to chose from and each and everyone brings back memories. I have chosen the following pictures mostly for the memories they evoke. I live in Yellowknife and through my work I get to deal a lot with environmental impact assessments of all kinds of projects all over the north, including the Thelon. It was great to finally see this area I've heard so many people talk about with my own eyes. I've compressed the pictures quite a bit for easy e-mailing and uploading. Let me know if you need higher resolution stuff."
Flight:
aerial camp:
library:
longspur:
aurora camp
"I just love this picture, I don't quite know. Maybe we Yellowknifers are jaded when it comes to northern lights and it takes going to a different place to re-learn to appreciate them. Maybe it is simply because I never photographed northern lights before and am just elated it turned out."
Caribou2
Martin Haefele
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
"Dancing with Caribou" is a magical journey along the path of caribou, muskoxen, Native People and explorers."
"We arrived for our eco-adventure in the deep green of late summer at the end of August, then watched daily as the tundra transformed into deep reds and bright yellows against the blue background of water and sky. At night we were dazzled by the purples and greens of the Aurora Borealis. By the end of our two weeks, chilly nights were creating a sombre landscape that foretold the long winter ahead. We were rewarded by our encounters with caribou, musk oxen, and northern birds but also enjoyed exploring the archaeological sites, waterways, eskers, and the wide open spaces. One moment we would marvel at the expanse and vast beauty of the tundra and then get down on our knees to appreciate the perfection of a plant only a few centimetres tall. The main building had an excellent library of books with common themes- the beauty and diversity of this fragile ecology, its environmental importance, and the passion it creates in the people who venture there."
- Rita Marett & Sandra Hannah / Kingston, ON Canada
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2006-07 Customer Testimonials
"My wife and I spent almost 2 weeks in the NWT on holiday this summer, of which the highlight was a week of guided kayaking on White Fish Lake in a trip organised by Great Canadian Wilderness. We had a wonderful time, looking at the photographs again last weekend reminded us how special and beautiful a place it is. The trip Tom set up was well organised. He and the other guides and staff at Whitefish Lake were immensely, experienced, knowledgeable and helpful and very committed to the appropriate management of this wonderful wilderness. They were also obviously very committed to safely operating in the challenging conditions of the NWT, both in terms of the flying operation (and its support) and the guiding of the kayak trip. We felt safe and well supported throughout our trip. I doubt that I would have made the long trip to the NWT territories without the lure of the Great Canadian Wilderness trip to see the true wilderness in all its glory. I am really glad we did, and I hope that this company continues to operate for many years to come bringing similar pleasure and enlightenment to others."
Professor Tim Jickells
School of Environmental Sciences
University of East Anglia Norwich, UK
"The first rock to cover the earth was formed from liquids that cooled to form hard granite, materials which in most regions of the continents were subsequently buried deep under more recent layers created through volcanic activity and erosion. The Canadian Shield is an exception. In a million square mile region of the arctic, repeated glaciations cut off ancient mountains leaving thousands of lakes surrounded by granite polished and scratched by the gargantuan movements of ice. Across this table of bare rock are eskers -- the bottoms of rivers that ran through glaciers remaining as narrow hills of sand and rocks stretching into the horizon after the glacier melted. The deep sands of the eskers are home to spruce trees, berries and hundreds of ponds created by buried blocks of ice that melted later. In contrast, the neighboring expanses of rock are partly carpeted by gardens of likens, moss and low shrubs. Walking is easy on the rocks through the gardens and along sandy paths on the eskers etched by millions of caribou footprints.
Known as the Barren Lands, the landscape was inhabited for thousands of years by caribou hunters of several tribes. The caribou provided food, clothing, tools and homes. European explorers and then fur trappers penetrated this arctic wilderness in the 1700s. Foreign diseases such as smallpox decimated native communities. Eventually, the survivors left their traditional ways in the Barren Lands and gathered in villages. The Barren Lands were left to the caribou, muskoxen, grizzlies, wolves and a plethora of birds and fish. Other humans on the Barren Lands these days are engaged in the exploration for and extraction of diamonds and uranium. In summer limited eco-tourism is available for canoeists, fishermen and other lovers of the wilderness.
In 2004, I led an expedition of ICF members to the heart of the Barren Lands through collaboration with a Yellowknife-based company, Great Canadian Wilderness. This August, after visiting the breeding grounds of Whooping Cranes in Wood Buffalo National Park (WBNP), I returned to the Barren Lands with 12 terrific people. Daily from the base camp beside Whitefish Lake -- one of the sources of the Thelon River that runs east to Hudson's Bay -- we ventured into the wilderness to explore and to drink in its vastness, silence and clear light. Once during the brief arctic night we were treated to a mesmerizing display of the Northern Lights and on the final day we encountered a herd of 55 magnificent muskoxen.
The Barren Lands have a unique beauty and for me a special attraction. There are few places one can visit in the today's world where the presence of modern man is not felt. On the Barren Lands one feels very much like a visitor peeking into a world where nature rules.
I wish to express a special thank you to Tom Faess, the owner and director of Great Canadian Wilderness, and to his staff at what I call Tranquility Base, Earth."
George Archibald/
Co-Founder
International Crane Foundation
Baraboo, WI, USA
"Well, I didn't know how it could be better than the prior
year, but it certainly was. The wildlife never stopped coming, from the
first musk ox we encountered on the "get acquainted" tour, to the last
caribou that were roaming through camp as we readied ourselves for the
trip back to Yellowknife. When you told us that we would become blasé
about the caribou coming through camp by the end of the trip, I thought
you were just hyping the situation. To my surprise, you were absolutely
correct. Our daily visits in the camp by caribou bulls became a part of
being there. The daily stalks in the surrounding country, led by the very
competent Andrew and Alicia, were exciting throughout. With the cool
overcast days giving the wildlife more incentive to be active, we were
able to find our prey wherever we ventured. Absolutely no hike was
un-rewarded -- we were never shut out. Andrew's calm and smooth "dancing" seemed to mesmerize the caribou, and several ventured to within a few
yards of our groups. We were able to see the truly wonderful
inquisitiveness of these gorgeous animals. One can only wonder what they
must be thinking of all these weird people with cameras venturing into
their domain. When the opportunity presented itself, Andrew turned his
magic towards the musk ox with the same fantastic results. His caribou
dance brought a young bull quite close to investigate what was happening.
The complete lack of fear that you find in many of the tundra's animals
gives me hope that man and beast can actually find a way to live together,
without us doing harm to them. The fall colors were abundant before we
left and provided us with excellent photo opportunities, too. Some of our
group caught lunch and dinner for a couple of days for everyone, fishing
in the pristine waters of Whitefish Lake. If there is a better total
package for photographers to visit the wilderness, I have no idea where it
could be. This is the epitome of untouched lands, and, without a doubt, I
have become addicted!"
Lonnie
Brock / The
Nature Workshops
Scottsdale, AZ
(2001,
2002, 2004 & 2006)
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ERICH ALMASY and
CYNTHIA J. BLANTON
The Honourable Brendan Bell
Dear Sir: We are writing to you concerning Tom Faess and Great Canadian Wilderness Holdings to tell you of the excellent work he does to preserve the Whitefish Lake/Thelon area, to raise awareness about this extraordinary part of the world, and to promote low-impact tourism. We met Tom several years ago while attending a convention of The North American Nature Photographers Association. Like most of those in attendance, we had never heard of The Barrenlands and the Thelon, but we were so inspired by Tom's presentation that we decided we would go there someday. We spent a delightful two weeks at Whitefish Lake during August and September of this year, and we were more than satisfied with our experience. We fell in love with the area and would definitely return and stay at Tom's camp again. Our main concern about going to the tundra was the need to fly on little floatplanes. We have always been wary of small flying operations, and we were concerned about how good the pilots would be, whether the planes would be well maintained, and if safety precautions would be observed. We were much relieved to learn of Tom's extensive experience flying floatplanes in the area, and we were especially happy to learn that he had a full-time, experienced aircraft engineer/mechanic on site taking care of the plane. There was also a second pilot who has 14 years of experience flying in the bush. We flew with both Tom and the second pilot and were very impressed with their attention to safety. They were very careful about how much weight the passengers were putting on the plane, and Tom absolutely refused to fly us one day because he thought the weather was "iffy". Even though the guests pressured him to take us out to another location, he made us wait until he was sure we would be safe. One of the reasons we enjoyed our stay so much was the quality of the guides Tom provided. During our first week, a young man named Sebastian was our primary guide. He was quite knowledgeable about the tundra and its history and did a great job leading us to new locations each day. Under his guidance, we successfully crept up near a herd of musk oxen and got close enough to take wonderful pictures without disturbing the animals. When we were finished shooting, we moved away and the animals continued grazing. During our second week, Tom was our primary guide and he really made the history of the Thelon area come alive. We sat on the esker listening to him talk about the "caribou eaters" and the early explorers of the area. You could see his love for the place reflected on his face. Another guide, Steve Lybeck, also has a lot of experience in the Thelon area, but we were most impressed by the special help he gave to one of the older guests who simply was not in shape to be hiking. Steve stayed with him and helped him along, trying to make sure he had a good experience while Tom made sure the rest of the group was not held back by the slower individual. They managed to make everyone happy and we even got to see a second herd of musk oxen. Minister Bell, we have traveled extensively to many ecologically sensitive parts of the world, including the Galapagos Islands, Amazon rain forest, Nepal, African savannah, and the Great Barrier Reef. Tom's operation is not the slickest or the fanciest, but we commend his low-impact, respect-for-nature style. His long-term commitment to the area is clear and his dedication to teaching others about the Thelon is remarkable. Some of the guests grumbled at first when Tom insisted on doing his "readings", but as he read to us from histories of the area each day, we felt we were stepping back in time. His knowledge and enthusiasm left us all feeling we had been in a special place. We also enjoyed our Dene cook who made wonderful sauces from the cranberries and blueberries we gathered and kept us well fed with simple, but good food. We thought the price we paid for the trip was well worth it and we would love to do it again. We believe Tom Faess has been a great ambassador for the Thelon region and we hope he will continue in this role for many years to come. Sincerely, Erich Almasy & Cynthia Blanton Executive Director, Executive
Education, Ivey Business School |
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"I had the pleasure of vacationing in the North West Territories in August and must say I was very impressed with my stay in the north-country. Although I am now retired, I spent a fair amount of time in the north during the late 60's and early 70's as a pilot with Pacific Western Airlines and was amazed at the changes, from the excellent highways and roads to the beautiful city of Yellowknife. The highlight of my trip was my stay at Whitefish Lake with GREAT CANADIAN ECOVENTURES and Proprietor, (Tundra) Tom Faess. Although I had looked down on this country from 35,000 feet on many occasions, it wasn't until I was able to hike and fly across the land in a bush plane that I was truly able to appreciate the natural beauty of the area. Tom did an excellent job of organizing our travel arrangements from Yellowknife to the Lutselk'e airport and then on to Whitefish via his Beaver float plane. The camp was excellent considering the isolated location and I was very pleased to see that the aircraft was based at the camp with two pilots plus an aircraft maintenance engineer. I was also pleased to see that a satellite internet connection as well as telephone was available so we could keep in touch with the outside world. In my judgment, Tom and his employees run a first class operation with the airline service as well as guides, camp maintenance and kitchen staff. My keen interest in photography is what made me aware of Tundra Tom. He has been featured in such magazines as Photo Life and Outdoor Photographer, with articles written by Courtney Milne, George Lepp and Galen Rowell. He truly is a unique character and very much an environmentalist. The north needs men like him to promote and protect this very fragile area of our country. With global warming causing rapid change, we should all be concerned with what is in store for the future. I hope Tom and his operation will be around for many years to help make a positive difference."
Yours Truly, Birt Nord
Surrey, BC
"Canada has a great treasure in the Barren Lands. This part of Canada is truly a pristine and wonderful land that should be preserved for all time. My opinion is that Tom Faess' tourism business does a wonderful job at educating people as to what is there and does it in a most unobtrusive way, letting you experience it for yourself. I have been there at Whitefish Lake two times, once in 2002 and again this year in 2006. The Barrenlands has left its imprint on me and seems to have become a part of me and I will never forget it. For me it was a most meaningful lifetime experience. Having traveled across my United States quite a number of times I find that the Barrenlands remains as the most memorable and the most worthy of places to visit. Safety of course was my first consideration - being in a strange place with unknown animals. But there are no problems with this at all. I believe the Camp is managed with safety as a top goal. The first year Andrew was my Guide and this past summer it was Sebastian. I can't imagine how Tom found such excellent people to be his Guides. They are very confident, strong and knowledgeable and I know for a fact that safety was their top concern for us. I also knew there was a backup crew at Camp easily accessed by phone, but of course the need never arose. As a person who doesn't like planes at all, you will just have to take my word for the confidence I have in Tom and the other pilot there at camp. I knew of Tom's long experience and ability with his plane. It was also obvious that the other pilot had a great deal of experience. One thing a pilot can't handle in a small plane is the windy weather. And Tom proved to us that he knows when to not fly. Also important to me was the airplane mechanic who was very visibly on hand by the plane daily. A few days we visited other sites by boat. And there were two boats. Often one of the camp crew would ride with us so we were not alone with just the Guide. I started out a little wary of a tourist situation having experienced my travels in the United States, but Tom's tour was a unique and very appealing change. I loved being able to experience the land as it really is. No glitz anywhere - just the land. And it is the most beautiful place. We got to see the land and animals as they are meant to be without interfering in their lives. Overall, I believe Tom's EcoVentures is a wonderful tour. Both times I have been there his camp crew were always very interesting, helpful and friendly. They make you feel like you are at home. I hope that Tom Faess will continue to be able to give many other people a chance to experience what I know to be a wonderful experience in the Barrenlands."
Sincerely, Betty Lindberg
(2002 & 2006) Stow, MA
"During the period of August 18 - 25, 2006, we had the pleasure of visiting the beautiful Northwest Territories. We contracted our trip with Great Canadian Ecoventures (Great Canadian Wilderness Holdings Ltd.). Tom Faess, the proprietor, organized and facilitated our trip in a very efficient and cost effective manner. Our adventure started with 2 days in the modern and friendly city of Yellowknife followed by a flight with Ursus Aviation to Lutsel K'e. We were picked up at the airport by a local, native expediter who delivered us to the float plane base where we were met by our host, Tom Faess. He loaded us and our gear into a Beaver aircraft and transported us to his main camp at Whitefish Lake, some 240 miles east-northeast of Yellowknife. Our week-long adventure in the headwaters of the Thelon River included guided hikes on various eskers and Precambrian tundra for history, geology and geography lessons and wonderful photography opportunities. We came home with hundreds of incredible pictures of much of what the barrenlands has to offer: eskers, kettles, Precambrian tundra, inukshuks, muskox and flora, etc. Our host and his staff proved to be very competent and knowledgeable. Tom Faess and his relief pilot, Billy, made us feel very confident and comfortable while flying. It was comforting to have two experienced pilots and a fulltime aircraft engineer on location to run a first class flight operation. The camp was well set up and included hot showers, weatherproof Quonset-type tents, a main lodge complete with cooking/dining (great food!) an extensive library as well as satellite/internet communications. It is fascinating to be sitting north of the tree line while sending and receiving e-mails on a lap-top. The Whitefish Lake/Thelon areas are part of Canada's history, even our very capable Dene cook had roots at this esker location through her grandparents. The Faess family are also part of the area's history and have been committed to it for nearly 4 decades. Tom is particularly knowledgeable and protective of all aspects of the tundra including archeological and anthropological sites. In summary, we emphasize that our trip to the Whitefish/Thelon area is one of our most memorable adventures. We enjoyed the area, the people, the sight-seeing and returned home with a deeper understanding of the north and a more complete picture of Canada. The trip was well planned and expedited at a reasonable expense. In total, we spent 3 nights in Yellowknife, one in a well-equipped guest house at Lutsel K'e and 7 nights at Whitefish camp. Our experiences in the northwest territories have left us with a strong desire to return and we would not hesitate to contract the services of Great Canadian Ecoventures again. In this age of high-tech mineral exploration and development and the considerable wealth of natural resources in this part of the world, it is reassuring to know that concerned individuals like Tom Faess are protecting the environment while promoting a deeper understanding of this fragile ecosystem."
Brian & Sonja Boyce, PEng, Councillor,
Town of
Edson, Alberta
"Just a short note to thank you again for three wonderful weeks, out at White Fish lake and surrounding area- I had a good time again. Talking about a good time, it was mentioned that this was my ninth trip with GCW. It sort of surprised me, maybe six or seven but not nine. They wondered what was the main attraction to bring me back nine times which at the spur of the moment wasn't hard to answer: I simply like the place, but couldn't be specific. Since I've be home now for over a month, my thoughts come back to this nine times, and how come? As you know I have taken 2 to 3 weeks up north including the high arctic, from north Yukon in the west and as far east as Qaanuuk on Greenland, and north as high as Alexander Fiord on Ellesmere Island. I've been doing this for over 20 years. I had to check this out and frankly riot just pass this off with a simple answer. I checked it out and IT IS nine times, from 1992 the first time till 2006 presently! The question remains now, is 'how come? And why? For me it's the land. Geographically it's called "barrens" for me it's not- I just spent three weeks photographing it's color, the beauty of the reds and yellows blending in with the browns and green. The land is romantic, herds of caribou in their annual migration trying to raise their young in a struggle foe survial1 The same for bird life, feeding their young on an abundance of insects and tender sprouts, the flight(and sounds)of the long migration. It's a land of history, the numerous stone cairns of direction and location of people in the long past. Old cabins in ruin, long ago abandoned; and gravesites of native people in the not so distant past. The cabins, more recent, abandoned, still with household goods of the 1930's by hunters in the quest of riches in the fur trade, all in an violent environment. It's been home to many people. And, it's the night life--yes--of the borealis, stars and moon displays, after an evening signing off with ever changing and different sunsets. All this spread over a land that shows its own signs in a struggle for survival. The signs of the last ice age are ever present. I'm sure that the many guests are as grateful as I am that your company has made this all possible. Guests, I may add, from all walks of life, means and possession, and corners of the world. Interesting and informative, they are an experience in itself. Your company has provided the infrastructure and means that makes it all possible. Aside from the physical structures, rustic as some might say, . Needless to say your guides were all top notch, top rate. Your staff are well trained, the guides are all well informed and knowledgeable. Everybody is courteous, caring and attentive to our needs. This includes attention to our safety at all times. The amenities are good - and even excellent, especially your library for evenings and days when the weather is uncooperative, unfortunate there are some - and they come with the package. For all this to come together as it has, requires not only leadership it requires commitment, passion and love for this land, and its future. You are well named Tundra Tom. You know the territory, its nooks and crannies beyond belief, its your back door. Your thirty some years of guiding has served your company well: We the guests are the beneficiaries. Tom, as you know there quite a bit of flying involved, and not everyone likes flying especially in small planes. May I say that, of all the many pilots I've flown with, you are one of the very few who can land on an unknown and unnamed lake, and dock on shore and not get your feet wet! This certainly is a testimony to much experience, care, and safety practices. Again you serve us well. Thanks again for a job well done. Keep exploring---bring on the adventure!
PS: Before I get too carried away, I'm going to fax a copy of this rendition to NWT tourism. You are serving you industry well and have over a long period of time. In these day's were everybody is looking for tourism dollars, I would like to covey and share with them, my thanks and appreciation as well, to your commitment: you are a true ambassador for the territories. They too, are beneficiaries."
George
Nagel
Leader, Sasktachewan
"I have been a client of Tom and Great Canadian Wilderness on three trips to the Thelon area in 2001, 2002 and 2006, with the hope of more return trips. I first visited the Thelon area of the Barren Lands and, more specifically, Whitefish Lake after reading several books by Canadian authors. I continue to return because Great Canadian Wilderness, through the efforts of Tom Faess, provides a safe, educational and action-packed means of seeing your great country. It can be downright scary and risky to entrust one's own health, well-being and very life in a such a remote, inaccessible and wild land with a company in another country advertised in a magazine. Yet early discussions with Tom built enough trust that I was willing to sign on for a trip. Within my first few minutes of getting off the plane at Whitefish Lake, on my first trip in 2001, I was convinced that my experience with Tom's outfit would be spectacular, well worth every penny of the trip cost and that I would return home safely. I was not disappointed. In a remote land, where travel and comfort are determined by the weather, there are many dangers and many things can go wrong. Yet in this vast, wild land, one of the things I noticed at the Whitefish Lake camp was the emphasis on safety. Tom and his staff had a great "infrastructure" to ensure the safety of the clients. Two pilots in camp ensured that illness or injury of one pilot would not risk the safety of the clients. As a client visiting a remote area, this was important to me. I flew with Tom Faess and had complete confidence in his ability to fly the plane safely and responsibly. I also flew with the second pilot and, again, had complete confidence in his abilities. I thoroughly enjoyed all flights. A plane mechanic based right at camp ensured the plane would always be in good working order. In fact, the mechanic met the plane each time it landed, was there when the plane took off and diligently worked on the plane daily. I chatted with the mechanic for a few minutes before an early morning flight and he mentioned he was up early and had just changed the oil and had gone over the plane for our flight. The plane was not flown in bad, or even questionably unsafe weather. Clients were advised of the perimeter in which we could travel when unaccompanied by a guide. Each client was reminded daily to fill out a checkout sheet for any solo excursions noting where they expected to go and when they expected to return. The checkout sheet was monitored to ensure clients returned safely to camp. During my trip in 2001, with 24 hours of daylight, the camp manager stayed up until all clients returned to camp for the night. On my most recent trip in August, I noticed upon my return from an evening walk that a staff member was outside awaiting my return. We were instructed on what to do if we became lost and how to behave if we met any wildlife. Guides continually monitor the clients to ensure that the clients are physically able to handle each excursion. A synopsis of each excursion is given and clients, with some input from the guides, determine whether they are able to safely make the excursion. Radios provide immediate contact with groups that split up and with camp. Guided daily excursions were determined, in part, by the weather. Contributing to the safety and value of the trips are the experience and knowledge of Tom and his guides. Tom has over 35 years of tourism experience in the Thelon area and has continued his family's commitment to the wilderness and tourism. Through experience over many years and learned from his family, he has learned the logistics and intricacies required to operate a tourism business in a very remote area and does so with great professionalism. Considerable behind-the-scenes work is required to run a smooth, professional and safe operation especially when the weather turns bad. In addition to the "business side", Tom has tremendous knowledge of the Land, the history and the wildlife. He leads by example in asking his clients to respect historical sites and field ethics. Tom's commitment, knowledge and personality all contribute to his success and make him a great ambassador for the Northwest Territories. Tom has been very fortunate to find some absolutely wonderful guides. Their knowledge, patience, experience and willingness to help are unsurpassed. They show phenomenal respect for the land, the history and the wildlife and ask that the clients do the same. Wildlife stalks are conducted in a such a way that we attempt to get close to the animals, view them and leave, without them knowing we are there. This can only be done with the guides' strong sense of field ethics and their knowledge of animal habits, landscape and weather conditions. Terry Elliot, who has guided for Tom for many years, has such strong field ethics and his ability to find his way along mile after mile of tundra (before GPS came into use) is unsurpassed. With his years of experience, he is able to teach clients about the plants, wildlife and Native and trapper history. Andrew MacPherson was trained by Terry and continued his teachings and respect for the land. Sebastian Matton, my guide in 2006, shared his considerable knowledge of the land and helped us understand what it may have been like to live on the land as the Natives once did. He successfully brought us near a herd of musk-ox without being seen so we did not disturb them in any way. The guides' calm, patience and compassion could not mask their confidence and their ability to handle any situation. All three of my guides were wonderful ambassadors for the Northwest Territories. Through excursions to places of historical interest, interpretive walks and wildlife stalks, they taught us the respect of the land and its history by showing that same respect themselves. My first thought, when descending beneath the clouds on my first flight into the Barren Lands in 2001, was that I completely understood why the land was given the name. It is easy to look at the open, empty land and think it is useless and only good for its minerals, ores, sands and water. Yet the land is not empty and there is a fine balance that holds it all together. The pristine beauty, abundant plant and wild life need to be preserved and not ravaged by business that will destroy the remote nature of the land. I found so much history and seasonal wildlife at Whitefish Lake and the general Thelon area that I believe this is tremendously important as a tourist destination. Our world is becoming increasingly chaotic and it is a real pleasure, and almost a need, to be able to visit such a beautiful and wild place. I have thought of my times in the Thelon area every single day since my first trip in 2001. It is such an incredible area with an amazing sense of history. So often when conducting business, there seem to be hidden costs. In my three trips with Tom, I was quoted a price and paid that price. I felt the cost of the trip was money well spent, as is probably obvious because I've returned several times!"
Theresa M. Lindberg
Northboro, MA
(2001, 2002
& 2006)
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2005 Customer Testimonials
"Dear Tom; Just a quick note to let you know how much I enjoyed a truly unique experience at your Whitefish Lake base camp this past summer. I feel as though I have been privileged to experience something that very few others ever will. The tundra is truly a special place that needs to be preserved! The service provided by you and your staff was first-rate, the food was hearty, the tents dry, and the guides were very knowledgeable. I appreciate the effort you and the guides put into getting our group within viewing range. Thanks again Tom and hopefully I'll get another opportunity to visit the tundra soon!"
Greg Yahr / Photographer
West Bend, Wisconsin USA
"To Tundra Tom and the Staff at Whitefish Lake; When I was a young girl I met Gus D'Aoust at his brother's place in Hay River and listened to his tales of trapping and living in the barrens. It really fascinated me and August 19 this year I had an opportunity to travel to your camp at Whitefish Lake in the barrenlands near the site of one of his cabins. The flight from Yellowknife was wonderful as we flew over the spectacular East Arm of the Great Slave Lake to Lutsel K'e and also over the eskers to the camp which was to be our home for a whole week. My friend Donna and I had the good fortune to be part of a very interesting group: a couple from Alberta, a family from Texas, and two photographers from California. We enjoyed the home style meals where we got to know everyone. The food was excellent, especially the baked goodies, not to mention the bannock. I enjoyed the breakfast readings of some of the lore and history of the areas before we set out on our day's activities. Our guides were very knowledgeable about the area and very interesting as they took us on various hikes pointing out things we might have missed such as velvet from the caribou antlers, kivik from the muskoxen, and flints from the chipping stations. We really appreciated your finding the herd of muskoxen for us to stalk. That was definitely the highlight of the trip for me. They were fascinating to watch. The whole trip was truly above and beyond anything I had expected and I thank you and your staff and your sister for taking such good care of us and making us feel so at home. You have an incredible place, Tom. Please keep it just the way it is."
Bonnie Webb
Hay
River, NWT Canada
"I want to take this chance to finally say thanks for a
terrific trip {Clarke-Thelon River Expedition}; this summer. I'd been a
little worried that this trip couldn't possibly be as wonderful as the
trip I did with you ten years ago. Could the river be more traveled; would
I miss the freshness of a first visit? In fact, this trip was even better.
One of the great things about traveling with Great Canadian Ecoventures is
your intimate and detailed knowledge of the river, so we knew where to
find fine campsites, where to look for archaeological sites, where to see
the falcons, which we spent an hour photographing. I also really like
knowing how hard you are working to protect this amazing river valley. I
think it's a model of how Ecotourism should work-- working to recruit the
kind of travelers who will appreciate a place, providing them with the
information to get past a surface knowledge, and working toward
preservation. And, I'd say, expecting the travelers also to help out, when
we can, in keeping the Thelon wild. And in logistics, I felt very well
taken care of. Your pilot Brad went to some trouble being sure we got the
extra food barrel; when we requested canoe repair supplies, they arrived
in good time. Within the natural flexibility demanded in Arctic travel,
all our flights were timely and well coordinated. And the Thelon itself!
Meeting the mournful yearling grizzlies, still moaning that Mom had kicked
them out, and having a musk ox run us off its sand dune, and hearing
wolves call through many long pink nights--these were wonderful
experiences. But more than anything it's just the sheer space, and knowing
all those animals are out there, that made me again feel free, and happier
than I do anywhere else on earth. Thanks a lot. Keep up your great
work!"
Judith Niemi (1991,
2002, 2003, 2005)
Women In The Wilderness
St Paul, MN
"I have just finished editing all my images from my trip this summer up to Tom Faess's camp on Whitefish Lake at the headwaters of the Thelon River. Going through all these images brought back vividly all the good times & photographic opportunities I have enjoyed over the past three years at Whitefish Lake. The incredible beauty and history of the area keeps drawing me back, and Tom's comfortable, well-organized camp always adds to the experience. It continues to amaze me that such comfortable accommodations exist in the middle of the Tundra. The heated library is a great place to relax on those windy autumn days while the food produced in the kitchen is always great. I especially enjoy telling my workshop participants that they will be able to have a hot shower everyday! One of the big benefits of Tom's camp is the onsite aircraft. The ability to fly to where the animals are certainly made our caribou shoot this summer and it's comforting to have such a safe pilot as Tom at the controls. Tom is a safety first pilot and continually checks weather patterns to make sure our flights will be safe. Whether it's checking the latest weather on the satellite phone or looking online from camp - Tom is constantly informing himself of the potential weather problems. The arctic weather is very unpredictable and it's comforting to know that Tom is not taking any chances. Thanks again Tom - I can't wait for the next trip."
Glen
Grambo / Photographer
Warman, Saskatchewan, Canada
(2003, 2004 & 2005)
An absolutely wonderful experience! I have traveled from
Circle City, Alaska to Tierra del Fuego, through the Rockies and Andes and
into the Amazon, and to Nepal and Southeast Asia. I worked as a naturalist
guide in the Galapagos Islands and as a park interpreter in Banff National
Park. My wife and I have hiked and backpacked throughout wilderness areas
in the Rockies, Andes and in the Himalaya. In all of my travels, I have
never experienced a sense of awe as I experienced in the Barren Lands on
my trip with you last September. It is still an experience and a feeling
that is difficult to express in words. The Barren Lands are the heart and
soul of not only Canada, but all of North America. It is the incredible
expanse of untouched wilderness that brings us so much closer to Nature
and ourselves. You, your guides, cooks and support staff are all to be
commended for being sensitive to both the natural and cultural heritage of
these lands and for promoting their protection.
Jeff Waugh /
B.Sc. Wildlife Science
Inti
Travel and Tours, Inc. (2003 & 2005)
Banff,
Alberta
"Thanks for yet another fantastic wilderness experience in
the barrenlands! For what was now my eighth trip with Ecoventures, My
daughter and I had a wonderful time exploring the tundra with your guides
Andrew and Kyle. My daughter's first trip was filled with some exciting
memories -- we saw Arctic wolves, musk oxen and grizzlies. We really
enjoyed learning about the history and culture of the Barrens. The Dances
With Wolves experience was a highlight. Being able to observe wolves for a
long period of time on their home turf was great. This was my eighth trip
and I am still awed by this place! Last summer, the Finnie River was a
great idea. The river flows through some great country -- wide-open tundra
in the upper section, spruce groves along the lower section, and lots of
eskers to explore along the way. We saw plenty of wildlife -- arctic
wolves, peregrine falcons, musk oxen and lots of caribou. We saw over a
hundred caribou cross the river next to our camp one evening. Thanks again
for your help in planning the trip and your flexibility in working around
our schedule."
(the
late) Larry Kwicinski (1989, 1995, 2001, 2002 & 2005)
Woodside,
California
"I want to thank you for an amazing canoe trip on the Thelon this August. I would never have had the experience if not for your generosity of the "locals" discount!! It was so kind of you to offer that. The trip was wonderful. I finally got to see the musk oxen!!! Your staff was fabulous!!-extremely knowledgeable, friendly, and their enthusiasm for the Thelon wilderness was contagious!!! I hope to do another section of the River in the future with your team. Thanks again for everything."
Grace Fitzpatrick
Yellowknife, NT
Canada
"I wanted to allow time for my experiences at Whitefish Lake to sink in before I tried to write about them. The surface stuff, of course, is easy: a beautiful, enigmatic landscape with animals that appear and disappear as though passing to and from another time or dimension; history everywhere you walk and guides that explain it so that it adds yet another facet to the experience; snow flurries, northern lights, wolf paw prints the size of my hand (not palm, HAND), and musk ox bulls butting heads in a scene that would have looked much the same thousands of years ago. What is more difficult to express are what the land, its plants and animals, and its history created in my heart and imagination. For example, as I looked into a snow-speckled sky, watching skein after skein of geese race southward, I thought about how lonely this land must become when winter settles in and wondered what the trappers who stayed here in the bitterest of seasons must have felt as they heard the voices of the departing flocks. To live on this land must have taken great courage and a humble willingness to submit to its rhythms and vagaries. Indeed, many of those who lived here made nearly unbelievable sacrifices to remain - not for any riches they could take from the land but for what the land gave to their spirits. After only two weeks, I began to understand what drove them to such lengths and I, too, know that I must return. Thank you, Tom, for the immense effort you put into preserving this unique place and for sharing the gifts it holds for all who are willing to open their minds and spirits. With love and friendship..."
Becky Grambo / Author & Journalist
Warman, Saskatchewan (2004 & 2005)
"Tundra Tom and Staff, I wanted to thank you for a wonderful trip to "the Barrens". Your location provides access to such a variety of geographical features and pristine wilderness. My main goal was to see Musk-ox and you and your staff were quite professional in leading us on the "stalking". Sighting an arctic wolf and a variety of songbirds was just a bonus. Your staff were all helpful and friendly but I was particularly impressed with Sebastien who led us on several educational hikes. He managed to keep our group informed and confident as we followed fresh grizzly tracks down the esker on one of them! I have a wonderful collection of photos from the trip.from flora and fauna to shots of the other travelers and staff. I am attaching a couple that you may enjoy."
Donna Hakansson
Hay River, NT
Canada
"Never have I been to a 'dance' so extraordinarily beautiful and so rich to my spirit, as this one. The 'dance' never skipped a beat and the choice of 'music', 'partners' and 'step' were all mine. Would it be with lake trout twisting and turning on a line cast from the camp beach? Would it be with time itself and the appreciations for the 'small' things I often miss below the tree line, but are now importantly significant in the unobstructed beauty of this sky and land? Will it be with the colours and creatures.caribou, arctic fox, wolverine, musk ox, bald eagle, wolves on the beach and camera? Perhaps I'll choose history itself and reflect on the good and not so good deposits and mysteries, left by time and inattention, on my own interior eskers. But always there is this land, it's waters, it's gift of life, and the nights.. those dazzling and moving nights, how I miss them. Campfires, shore lunch, Circles of Air, Stone, Stories and a billion stars .priceless! My 'Dance With Caribou' trip of a lifetime was taken with my son and great 'partner' Jim and was absolutely the best investment I've made in myself in years. I want to express my gratitude and thanks to Tundra Tom, guides and staff of Great Canadian Ecoventures. Sweet Peace and Blue skies.."
Tom
Pearcey (2003, 2004 & 2005)
Westborough,
MA
"I have filmed wolves, caribou and grizzly bears in many areas of the Canadian Arctic over the past 15 years and I have to say that the area around Whitefish Lake [upper Thelon River] is without a doubt the most beautiful piece of Arctic tundra I have ever experienced. It is a world-class wilderness with some of the planets most spectacular scenery and wildlife that is hard if not impossible to see anywhere else. I know of no other place where you can go and watch wild wolves around their den. Wolves are one of the most difficult animals to get close to in the wild and Tom and his crew have been doing it here for years. That says a lot about their sensitivity and success as wildlife guides. Tom and his crew at Great Canadian Ecoventures are ideally placed to give access to this wonderful landscape. There is no one with more experience and knowledge of the area and they have setup a comfortable, warm and homey camp with good food and facilities in the middle of this wilderness. They live lightly on the land here trying always to keep the imprint of man to a minimum in this pristine place. I admire and appreciate the work they do and wish them much success in the future."
Jeff Turner (2003 & 2004)
River Road Films Ltd.
Princeton. BC,
Canada
(sub-note: Jeff Turner spent two years working with us on a wildlife documentary titled 'Caribou & Wolves - the Deadly Dance', that was aired in the summer of 2005 in the USA on 'Animal Planet', and in the UK on BBC2 on a series called "The Natural World".)
"When I left Yellowknife to fly out to the camp, Tom Faess pulled me aside, and said: "Annett, I guarantee you that when you return from your adventure you will not be the same person" Tom was right. I returned to civilization forever changed; I will never forget the magnificent Arctic wilderness or the extraordinary people of the Northwest Territories. Tracking the ever-elusive magical white wolf days on end was a cathartic experience. As I hiked and crawled on my belly through endless sand eskers and tundra, I went through an emotional roller-coaster ride of gloom, insecurity, quiet wonder and immense joy. I had a beautiful and memorable time at Fort Reliance and was honored to be a guest at the Dene' annual spiritual gathering and to be a part of the celebration of the Dene' culture, their heritage and their spirituality. During the six weeks at the Camp at Whitefish Lake, I met some remarkable people from all walks of life. The leader of Ecoventures, the legendary Tundra Tom, the pilot Brad Connell and the guides Andrew McPherson, Lloyd Comber, Allicia Kelly and Larry Bliss all share a passion and love for the land and for their work. They pushed me to the limit, and inspired me to overcome my self-doubts, thus opening my eyes to the wonders of the awesome "Barrenlands". They taught me to see, hear, smell and listen again. A final thanks goes to Jake, Tom's beautiful dog, and to the Alfa-male whose presence made my dream come true. Thank you all for providing such beautiful memories! Your devoted friend.."
Annett Wolf / Author &
Founder
The Wolf Foundation (2004 & 2006)
Copenhagen,
Denmark
"For ten years we have traveled
together as a family, always having an interesting and enjoyable
time. But the Thelon is only place to which we felt we had to return. We
were nervous, as there is always a risk in returning. However, the lure of
the Thelon is as strong as ever. The peace andthe beauty were amazing and
we had an incredible trip. Our guides were excellent and the food as good
as ever. It was lovely to spend time somewhere we felt at home but at the
same time be privileged toexperience the wilderness. It would be a
desperate situation if this area were to become seen purely as an economic
resource and we hope that it will continue to be protected."
Charlotte Shipton (2001,
2004)
Richmond Surrey,
England
"THE HOLIDAY: This is a holiday where you truly get away from it all! No phones, TV, radio, computers or newspapers to intrude on the perfect peace. It was a wonderful fortnight. I wish I could have stayed the whole summer! THE PLACE: First impressions from the air - the endless landscape of lakes and eskers. The fascinating myriad of patterns of melting ice on lakes and the barren lands. Time is of no consequence in this vast land of daylight - one day merges seamlessly into the next. Previous experience is of very little use in judging time or distance. Visibility over great distances, with few landmarks other than stunted trees deceive the senses. What appears 10 miles away may only be 4. Out exploring, I look at my watch and suddenly realize its 11pm and we've been out for 4.5 hours. THE CAMP: Set on the beach of White Fish Lake, the huts look out over the lake. There's a kitchen, lounge and dining hut with an extensive library; a hot shower in the bathroom. Everything needed for comfort. I was hoping the unaccustomed exercise would help me shed a few extra pounds but, alas, too much of Alicia's baking and Andrew's bannock put paid to that plan. Not to mention the roast turkey, ham steaks etc etc. THE PEOPLE: Our guides, Alicia, Andrew and Lloyd were truly remarkable. While they looked after our every need, it was their passion for the place that they were willing to share unstintingly that added an extra special dimension to the holiday. They shared our excitements and disappointments. Viewing wildlife has a yoyo effect onto the emotions. Hope that you will see the animals, excitement when you get close, delight when they are seen and disappointment when the animals choose not to be seen. It was a perfect opportunity to meet others from all parts of the world who share a common interest. Some of us have maintained contact and shared our photos. THE FLORA: An amazing variety of exquisite flowers bloom on the tundra - the perfect opportunity for macro photography. THE FAUNA: What was the highlight of the trip? Was it! Watching the gyrfalcons raise their family over a period of two weeks. The largest chic was so close to its first flight on my last morning. It sat on the end of the branch flapping its wings and rising about ½ an inch. I longed to stay and see it fly! Or, much excitement as we approached the shore; something was moving in the scrub! Some white fur - perhaps a wolf? But as the animal broke cover and turned to look at us we realized it was a wolverine. A light brown face, brown legs and white shaggy fur on his back. He ran along the shoreline for a few paces and then, with a fluid lope raced up to the crest of the ridge where he turned to look at us and then disappeared from view. Sadly, in all the excitement no one took a photograph. Or, sitting still on a rock while a herd of 10000 caribou walked past. Or, stalking the musk ox and the frisson of fear when the bull wandered over to check us out. Or, sitting for 2 hours watching the fox kit play outside its den. Or, Making friends with the camp sic sic. The list goes on!"
Beverley Morris
Auckland, New Zealand
"Each summer for many years my son and I have traveled seeking our own small adventures. Backpacking, canoeing, fishing, we have visited national parks, forests and wilderness areas. Increasingly, we have sought solitude. It was our pursuit of solitude that led us to the Thelon. This place was unlike any we had visited. The depth of solitude was striking, and sometimes almost overwhelming. No people, no planes, no noise beyond the river and the wind and the birds. Days went by not only without seeing other humans, but seeing no evidence of humans, except perhaps the rock flakes or tent rings of previous inhabitants. The wildlife too was unique. Not only had we never previously seen musk oxen or a wolverine, but also our interaction with the wildlife was unusual. While they were not frightened of us, neither were they tame. Wolves, wolverine and grizzlies exhibited a cautious curiosity. Birds often ignored us entirely as they went about their daily routine, except for a brood of goslings that adopted us and chased our canoe down the river. The Thelon is unforgettable for us, and a treasure for all. Tom, we had a great trip. We really appreciate the help you provided. You assistance with advance preparations was thorough. In particular, your annotations on our maps to help us find the Hornby cabin, etc. were great. We also especially enjoyed the stop over at the fishing camp on our return flight. As I stated above, the Thelon is a treasure. If there is any way that we can help protect or expand the area, please don't hesitate to contact us. Best regards and happy holidays,"
"Hi Tom; first of all thanks for a good trip. You got us into and out of the river on time and with the weather and flying conditions the way they were, that's an accomplishment. Brad's a really great guy, knowledgeable in what he's doing and always helpful. We all had a really good time and look forward to more experiences up there in your corner of the world. "
'"As I watched the endless lakes and boreal forest glide under the Beaver in the two-hour flight from Yellowknife to Whitefish Lake, I felt like I had traveled back in time to the late Pleistocene. When we approached the lake on our final descent, the partially frozen lake appeared like a retreating glacier on the horizon, and I half expected to see woolly mammoths or saber tooth tigers awaiting us. What I found instead was a very comfortable camp on a sandy esker in the middle of the arctic prairie, a rich oasis of habitat teaming with wildlife in the middle of the Canadian Barrenlands. The next two weeks would afford me opportunities to photograph nesting gyrfalcons, merlins, ravens, and American golden plovers. I would also photograph Harris sparrows carrying insects to their nests, arctic hares in summer pelage, and long-tailed ducks, not to mention a myriad of gorgeous tundra scenery. The moonrise and sunsets were incredible! I would participate in a midnight musk ox stalk on the fourth of July and observe white wolves near their den. While I was busy photographing nesting birds, several others flew out to witness the caribou migration several hundred miles north, and observed wolves taking down a caribou in the middle of a river, a sight few ever see. Tundra Tom's Whitefish Lake camp is an ideal place for anyone interested in observing the workings of an intact sub-arctic ecosystem, whether through the lens of a photographer, the binoculars of a birder, or the curious eyes of anyone who just wants to witness firsthand one of the most wonderful places on the planet. Many others have said that this place gets to your soul, and I couldn't agree more."
William H.
Mullins / Photographer
Boise ID, USA
"The two weeks I spent in Aug / Sept on the Dance with Caribou trip was great. I was extremely pleased with the entire two weeks. My primary focus during the trip was landscapes -and I got some spectacular photographs.I also got some great wildlife shots too. You and your staff are to be complimented for the great job you do. I would like to come back and spend some time in the future. I was very impressed with your overall knowledge of the Artic. You have done some wonderful historical research that you should make sure is preserved. Your strong knowledge and understanding of both the historical and the ecological aspects of the tundra were significant positive contributions to this trip. Your staff is second to none. All of them were very responsive to guest needs and they did a great job of working within the limitations of a remote base camp. I have nothing but compliments for all of them. In fact, I don't think I have ever seen a group that has worked any harder than your staff."
Dave Hammaker /
Photographer
East Freedom PA, USA
"An overwhelmingly positive experience! There is magic in the air, and a silence that will astound you. In late summer, there are flaming colours at your feet and overhead in the aurora. There are landscapes to amaze you, star-studded nights to inspire you, knowledgeable and likeable guides to inform you, the staff's great cooking to please you, a hot shower at the end of the day to warm you, and Tom's readings and philosophy that add so much to your understanding of this sublime country. Dance with the creatures, play on the eskers, float on the lake. Delight in these Barren Lands, not at all barren but full of life. This is a breathtakingly beautiful landscape we must all help to preserve and protect. Highly recommended for an escape into magic. A definite addition to my "MUST VISIT AGAIN" list."
Lori Labatt / Traveler,
Photographer
Rockwood ON, Canada
"Just sitting here in front of the computer on a Sunday evening and thought I'd drop you a line. Hope you are keeping well - and warm. I had a great summer this year doing the things I enjoy. I managed to get a couple of backpacking trips in as well as several canoe trips. Of course the highlight of my summer was the trip on the Thelon. As you are aware, our trip began and ended in Yellowknife. (I came to Yellowknife a few days prior to the trip and stayed a few days after the trip.) I really enjoyed the quaintness and hospitality of the town as well as getting the opportunity to meet with you and talk about the Thelon. Thank you for all your help in providing our group with the floatplane and canoe rentals as well as your personal info about the Thelon. Much appreciated. Our group of six spent 14 days exploring the Thelon Game Sanctuary from Warden Grove to the Thelon Bluffs and each day brought a new adventure. The combination of canoeing/hiking that we did was probably the best way to see this area in detail. Large animals such as musk ox, moose, caribou, bears and wolves were spotted on a daily basis - usually from afar. Eagles, falcons, geese and swans were abundant throughout the trip as we made our way down the river. The weather was typical tundra weather with a lot of windy days, which gave us welcome relief from the multitude of bugs. The fishing was excellent (mostly grayling and lake trout) and provided us with great dinners along the way. I think our timing was a bit off (too late) to view both the caribou migration and active wolf den areas. Another highlight of the trip for me was visiting the Hornby cabin and gravesites. Jack Hornby, Harold Adlard and Edgar Christian attempted to winter on the Thelon in the late 1920's and ended up starving to death. Edgar Christian, who was only 18 years old, kept a diary of events until his death. The diary was found in the cabin a couple of years after they had perished. I had read this diary about 30 years ago and was quite moved by his account of their ordeal. So to stand in the same spot some 70+ years later and observe the cabin remains, gravesites and the surrounding area was certainly a surreal experience. Our trip was an excellent adventure. The Thelon River as well as the surrounding tundra is certainly a unique part of the world. The vastness seemed almost overwhelming and the wildlife viewing was incredible. I feel very fortunate to have had the privilege of experiencing that short time on the tundra. Warmest regards,
Greg Michaluk
Windsor, Ontario
"I woke with the northern sun rising pink over Whitefish Lake and hiked the sandy Esker veiled in early morning mist. I picked plump blueberries and tasted their sweetness as I sat surrounded by masses of burgundy-red bearberries. I tiptoed over pale green lichen and slipped behind a black spruce tree to watch caribou slowly graze their way across the Esker. I paddled over crystal clear blue water toward pure white billowing clouds hugging the horizon and making the distant low hills float like a mirage known, until now, only in my dreams. I climbed a high ridge where few had walked before and felt the film of everyday life lift from my eyes as I turned in a 360-degree circle and breathed in the endless expanse of tundra and water before me. I was silenced by the beauty. I watched the cool full moon rise and bathe the lake with white light. I lay down on my back and looked up to the aurora borealis flashing green and mauve streamers across the night sky. I fell in love. I felt more alive then ever before and I long to return. The Barren Lands and the gift given to me by Tundra Tom and his staff will be with me forever."
Mary Ellen McQuay / Photographer
& Artist
Whitby ON, Canada
"It has been a week now since I have returned from my two-week adventure in the Thelon, the Barrens. I am reflecting on what I experienced and what I returned with. The land, pristine, untouched, timeless, a million lakes, endless. The cycle of life as it has always been for countless years. The caribou come and the caribou go and with them those who feed. The endless sky with weather in constant change always bringing something new. The beauty of the esker, pristine lakes full of magical reflections, a jewel in the middle of the tundra. The endless lake stretching to the east, Whitefish. The crew whose duty it was to keep us fed, multitasking, multitalented, hardworking and always cheerful, Allisa, Elke, Andy, Larry, Brad, Steve and Lloyd, each a very special individual. And then all the special people who I shared the experience with for the two weeks, each adding the own special ness to the experience, it is not everyday that one can spend time with three wise guys from Wisconsin, a Polish Prince, the world greatest photographer (Bill), the world greatest budding photographer (Julie), Canada's best (Courtney), the greatest entertainer (Steve) and everyone else. And who will forget Rod and his wolverine skat! But there was one person who showed me his big heart, a gruff big man who constantly smoked and changed his mind. A man with a special vision that made mine and everyone else's experience a reality, a man who is fighting to keep his dream alive and the land he loves the way it is, untouched by the modern world. Tundra Tom is a special person, and as I struggled through the two weeks with recurring spells of depression, I found a man who knew my experience, for it was his too. In words and actions I saw and felt the big heart of a big man. I thank him for being who he is. My past week has been difficult as I search for meaning a purpose, it is a curse I have been given, but one day at a time I continue to climb the mountain. The very best to all, may your adventures continue."
Rick Negus / Photographer
Half Moon Bay BC, Canada
"I confess I've been putting this letter off for awhile now, trying to sort out what to say when so much has already been written by others. Their offerings are so eloquent I wasn't sure my contribution was even necessary; Rick Negus copied us when he sent his letter earlier, and I imagine others from this year's groups have sent in similarly moving retrospectives. So I'm not going to think of this as an entry for your Testimonial page, but rather as a chance to tell YOU what my trip to the Thelon meant to me. During these weeks since my return, I've noticed certain themes and anecdotes seem to arise every time I describe my trip to other people... I found in the Thelon a beautiful wilderness, where I could sit by myself on a ridge and hear nothing but the wind. I could gaze off into the distance and let my eyes relax, and then follow the flight of a raven that decided to check out the odd lump sitting on the ridge. I remember the wonder I felt as it flew overhead, for I could hear each beat of its wings as it glided by. I remember a hike on a sunny day, with huge, fluffy clouds mirrored in the still waters of the lake. We hadn't even gotten out of basecamp yet, but I had to stop and look at the sky and the perfect reflection. This was just one example of the timeless beauty to be found in the Thelon, and I would pause to appreciate Nature's palette of colors and feel glad that on Tundra time I could stay and absorb the sights and sounds for as long as I wanted to. I remember winds picking up and dark clouds rolling in during one of my hikes away from basecamp. I got caught in a hailstorm that afternoon. I suppose I could have made a mad dash to camp, but why? I covered my camera, zipped my weatherproof jacket, sat under some branches, and marveled at the storm. When the elements realized they had an appreciative audience, they cut the storm and brought out the show-stoppers - a brilliant rainbow arc from the clouds that looked like the express route from Asgard, and a horizon-spanning double rainbow. How terrific was that? I remember lamenting to Stephen after my first week in camp that I was probably the only guest without a good picture of a caribou. He said I'd have one before I left, and sure enough, he made sure I did. We were out on the lake fishing (which is a whole other story!) when we saw a pair of caribou moving just off the shore. He managed to track it from the water, move us in close, and positioned us mere yards from where they paused to graze and rest. I got to watch these magnificent, graceful animals and shoot several frames at the same time, without perturbing the 'boo' in the slightest. That time spent looking at the caribou - with it looking back at me - is one of the 'magical moment memories' I brought home with me. I remember my first night waiting for the Northern Lights. They weren't spectacular that night, but a large number of us were lined up along the shore with our cameras and tripods. Cheerful voices came out of the dark as people suggested apertures and exposure times; I enjoyed the warmth and camaraderie of my fellow guests throughout my stay, even though I had arrived without knowing any of them before this trip. I remember a star-spangled night in South Camp, where the temperature had dropped quickly once the sun set. I sat with my back as close to the campfire as I could for warmth, but kept my eyes towards the sky in anticipation of the Northern Lights. They danced for us that night! Delicate streams of yellow and green, they wove patterns across the Big Dipper and all the stars in the northern sky. I was entranced, even as I tried my best to position tripod and camera, and to time the exposure, as I tried to freeze a fleeting moment of this magical show on film. In the middle of the show, I was surprised when Andrew emerged from the kitchen. It was past midnight, he'd been up since dawn, he'd taken care of the day's meals, and had led us all over the esker during the day, yet here he was still looking after us! He had prepared hot coffee, hot tea, and hot cocoa, AND he'd also managed to make a big pot of popcorn for us. All the elements of that night combined to engender a rare and wonderful sense of well being, seldom felt in my day-to-day routine and so all the more cherished. He probably thinks I'm crazy - I keep thanking him for all the things he did that made my trip special, and since they're things he does all the time for everyone he probably has no idea what I'm talking about. I do have some unfinished business Up North - I managed a few pictures of Northern Lights and caribou, but failed to photograph just about everything else (musk ox, grizzly bear, wolves, foxes, and hare!) It took me about 9 years to get Up There, and hope it doesn't take that long to get there again, but I truly plan to return and try again for the musk ox (I was SO disappointed there was no time to see that herd before I left!!) Please take care of yourself and keep fighting for this magical part of Mother Earth. We would all be poorer if it is lost or damaged. Tom, I came back from the Tundra with a new appreciation for its pristine beauty, a deep respect for your efforts to preserve it, and admiration for the people who live(d) here and love(d) the land. Personally, I experienced an emotional and spiritual relaxation that carried over for weeks after my return. I also had over 900 images to get developed, edited, printed, shown, and sent! (I'll send an invitation to view the on-line album I've assembled - you don't HAVE to look at the pictures, but if there are any you'd like for your website, just let me know and I'll be happy to attach them to an e-mail and send them.) But every picture brings back memories like those I've described above, of a wonderful place and time, and of extraordinarily dedicated and generous people - you and your staff. Thank Andrew, Allicia, Larry, Stephen, Brad, Lloyd - and Yourself - for being my guides."
Julie Yamaguchi
Chicago IL, USA
"Thank you for giving us a life-changing experience! We cannot begin to tell you what this trip and the people have meant to us. Our group still stays in touch by email--it has died down lately, but we expect to hear more around Christmas time. Thanks again,.."
Dr. Cameron Bilger
Los Altos Hills, CA, USA
"Being a 51 year old well-seasoned traveler, accepting a chance to visit the Canadian Tundra with Tundra Tom left me with absolutely no idea of what to expect. Siiigghhh. The most incredible scenery took my breath away every time I looked around, walking in places that few people have ever had the opportunity to venture across left me with a feeling of just how special this place was and how lucky I was to be there. Having a chance to experience this with a wonderful group of fellow world travelers made every day easy to adapt to any situation that arose. Thinking each outing could not be "bettered", I was amazed at how each experience got even betterthan the one before. Your staff could not have been more accommodating, helpful and knowledgeable in so many different areas. In life I believe there are no accidents and this experience left me reeling and anxious for the opportunity to tell anyonewho'd listen to the entire trips' stories, until this day. I feel at one with the Tundra and hope in the future to return and share in its existence. My heart cannot express the gratefulness for the privilege of sharing this experience with you and our fellow travelers. Thanks so much for this life changing experience -one I could never have anticipated."
Steve Carson
Los Angeles, CA, USA
"It's nothing short of Excellent, Tom. For photographers I really would have to recommend the two-week especially, adamantly. Reason being, looking at my photos, they got better as the week went on, because I became more familiar with the surroundings, began to see vs. look at, which happens over time. I find this the case for me in all destinations and with photography. The terrain is super and the wildlife is stunning when it is sited. I wont soon forget coming face to face with the musk ox, 15 feet in front of me, then blowing snot out and pricking his ears forward. Looking at me - seeing it all through the 400 mm lens was pretty amazing and very close up. The foxes at Gordon's esker were amazing too, Dave mentioned he saw a grizzly later on the second week - this is super! People sited wolves as well, which is great. Animal sittings are always great, and I know unpredictable. I feel very fortunate with what I saw. Guides: all were superb. I think the "sleeper " in it all was Larry. He adds color, and is a very interesting guy. He definitely quietly left a big impression on us. Andrew was great as was Alicia. They really knew a lot and were able to make the tundra come alive for us. And they put up with our silliness rather well. Brad was fun and I had many great conversations with him in the Kitchen. Food: Was very good. Perfect type of food for the application and environment. Home cooking vs. gourmet or whatever else is a damn good choice, its the bush, and I always find people prefer that type of food on that type of trip. It was perfect. Larry really knows how to do Turkey. Brad made superb bannock - just great stuff! Accommodations: Again great, lends the safari tented camp idea to the north. Dave Hammaker was our bunkmate and he was a great guy. Actually I hope to use him in the future, he is a hell of a good photographer and is very quiet about it. He really helped my older brother and they spent a lot of time together photographing landscape. I hope this email gives you a good idea on what I think about your product. I really plan on promoting it, it is the type of stuff I sell and I hope to send you clients, many of them. It's a great product you have and I hope you remain successful through everything and I hope your new camp and lodge works out wonderfully for you."
"This was a trip full of "firsts", shared with amazing personalities from every walk of life. Tender Tundra Tom puts up a brave, strong, gruff front, the guides and pilots have a very hard job here, and do it all with such passion. From washing dishes, to warming up planes, to guiding and hiking, they all had such incredibly knowledge".
Caren Banks
Caren's Best (African Photo Safari's)
Beverly Hills CA, USA
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"We are on the fringe of the great North and its living whiteness, its loneliness and replenishment, its resignation, and release, its call and answers -- its cleansing rhythms. It seems that the top of the continent is a source of spiritual flow that will ever shed clarity into the growing race of America, and we Canadians being closest to this source seem destined to produce an art somewhat different from our Southern fellows -- an art more spacious, of a greater living quiet, perhaps of a more certain conviction of eternal values." -Lawren Harris,
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"What has the two weeks in the North meant to me? First of
all, I feel profoundly blessed. Maybe what Lawren Harris, the great
Canadian Group of Seven impressionist painter, said three-quarters of a
century ago still holds true today. I would like to believe that my
photographs do convey a sense of place "more spacious of a greater living
quiet, perhaps a more certain conviction of eternal values." If a
photograph is a mirror of a person¹s inner landscape, then indeed the
North has connected me to a vibrant, clean, pure, robust inner reality
that has been lying dormant. The light there dances with a little more
joy. The colours of the autumn tundra mix and blend magically as if
splashed together from the brush of a master painter. I found it difficult
to walk because each new step felt as though I were treading on a delicate
and fragile Masterpiece -- nature¹s canvas of infinite size and
import."
"I open the tent flap and step out into a dazzling light
that illuminates the hoarfrost that has blanketed the beach before dawn.
There is my friend Jeff, binoculars to his eyes, a distant silhouette on
the far ridge. Tundra Tom walks into the kitchen, book in hand, ready for
our morning story -- which, legend has it -- he has memorized and only
pretends to read!"
"We are cruising the pristine waters of
Whitefish Lake on a pontoon boat as a brilliant crimson sunset explodes on
the western rim, then spreads like wildfire across the entire hemisphere.
Caribou antlers shine iridescent white in the nurturing glow of a pregnant
moon. The aurora, like a saucy and unruly sorceress, mocks our inability
to keep pace with her dance, or to catch her with our cameras. Rain,
sleet, wind, snow, sand, piercing cold, brilliant sun, Arctic light,
luminescent colour stream by us and at us in a kaleidoscope of cosmic
sensations. I am a child; I am old; I am alive; I can't comprehend; I
can¹t cope; I am exhausted, euphoric, mesmerized, satiated, starved for
more, eager to return ... and already there. My senses are in overload, my
body on the brink of collapse. The spell is cast."
Courtney
Milne / Photographer & Artist
(2003
& 2004) Grandora, Saskatchewan
"The Tundra. A feeling of space, infinitely moving air,
miniature gardens, tiny, enduring, huge and fragile. My thanks to you
cannot be summed up easily. Your passion and devotion to this land is
contagious. More specifically I want to say that I think you strike just
the right balance in your programme with scheduled options, free time,
natural history, human history - both aboriginal and European. Your hiring
philosophy is perfect. Or maybe just the people who made up your staff
this summer were perfect. It would be hard to imagine my week without
Allicia, Terry, Andrew, Steve and Larry. But then I guess I do believe
that this is not chance and that your manner of hiring is what results in
these kinds of individuals making up your team. A bonus and much
appreciated service is the expediting carried out by Cindy in
Yellowknife."
Adele
Curtis /
Photographer , Singer &
Songwriter
Victoria, BC (2003 & 2004)
"To be among the Arctic wolves in true wilderness has always
been a dream of mine. So when I heard about this trip called Dances with
Wolves I thought this could be my chance. I had never been to the
Northwest Territories before and even though I read the literature and
brochures from Tundra Tom I still was not sure what this trip would entail
or what the Thelon and Barren lands would bring forth. Yet somehow I
sensed, even before I left Denver, that a special encounter with one of
these magnificent creatures would take place before my two-week visit to
the Thelon would end. Late Tuesday afternoon on July 2, 2002 the sun was
still high in the cloudless blue sky. As I sat alone on the esker hillside
where I could watch the wolves in the den area several hundred yards away,
the wind shifted and coming from behind me it carried the human scent down
the hillside. Immediately the large alpha male looked up the hill towards
me. He moved swiftly across the sand and disappeared into the trees.
Traveling up the backside of ridge he reappeared within minutes above me
and to my right. Looking at him through my camera and telephoto lens was a
sight to behold. His head, face and shoulders filled the entire image as
he peeked over the top of the ridge searching for my exact hereabouts. He
seemed to sense I meant no harm or danger to him so he descended the small
ridge, crossed over in front of me and headed for the shade of the esker
pine trees that were below me and to my left. There in the shade sat this
great white wolf, intelligent, inquisitive and extremely social. No
fences, no enclosures, no platforms, no blinds, no vehicles--just the
beauty of this wilderness and the two of us enjoying each others company
as any two friends would do. Finally the wolf got up and started crossing
yet another ridge. There he paused and looked back at me one more time
before disappearing over the backside. Today my photographs stand as
testament to what was for me a true spiritual experience. The Thelon is
true wilderness--vast and remote with its own unique beauty and mystique.
While nature and true wilderness can be unforgiving to the creatures who
struggle to survive there, whether arctic wolves, foxes, musk ox, caribou,
song birds, water birds, birds of prey, moose or bear, we on the other
hand can visit this beautiful country with all the comforts of home--good
meals, hot showers, warm and comfortable shelter, and a superb staff of
people who are there 24 hours a day to serve you and to make sure your
trip is the best you have ever experienced. And for those occasional days
marked by sporadic rain and wind, Tundra Tom's Whitefish base camp library
is the ideal place to go to stay warm and dry while learning more about
the history and natural beauty of this land. Memories of the Thelon and
the Barren lands along with all the wild creatures who live there are not
soon forgotten. This is a world you want to see and experience for
yourself. I hope to return in the late summer and fall of next year to
photograph the caribou, the Musk Ox and with a little bit of luck, the
arctic wolves--all with the fall colors and the northern
lights."
Eric Peterson
/ Photographer
Engelwood, CO (2002 &
2004)
"The Thelon was truly an exciting experience. As we landed on Whitefish Lake I hoped to see the caribou that day. As we unloaded the luggage imagine my surprise and delight as four caribou appeared at the top of the esker, leisurely worked their way down and disappeared over the other side. What an amazing start to my adventure and it only got better as the week progressed. I saw caribou, musk ox and wolves, an added bonus. The terrain is very beautiful and the small tundra plant life fascinating, turning color in the cool weather. A comfortable camp, excellent guides, magnificent animals, good food and good company-what more can you ask for!"
Rita Kinsler (2002 & 2004)
Mansfield Center,
CT
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2003 Customer Testimonials
"It was a super vacation [Clarke-Thelon River
Expedition]. Monique and I enjoyed it immensely! The Clarke River is very
pretty, with such varied scenery that every bend seemed to hold a new and
interesting landscape. The grayling were always entertaining, and fun. The
narrowness of the river was neat. The Thelon, large and powerful was as I
expected, but was faster than I thought. The treed area of the oasis was
more extensive than I realized. The historical aspects of this river, was
something that I have read and thought about for a long time. In short the
trip was the trip of a lifetime, the wolves we saw were a bonus. Judith
was a patient, knowledgeable guide, with a calm and steady demeanor. Her
understanding of rivers, and water were truly an asset on the Clarke.
Allicia was also great. She is enthusiastic, capable, and responsible.
Thanks again Tom - It was a great vacation!"
Dr.
David Welbourne (2003)
Thunder Bay,
Ontario
"Thanks for making "an old dream come true". Each and
every one of you expressed very legitimate concerns about the potential
for economic development impacts to damage the "jewel". Rest assured, I
will do my best to help identify materials and individuals that could be
of some value or importance in your efforts to preserve this most sacred
place from damage. Thank you,"
E. Jeanne Gagnon (2003)
Yellowknife,
NWT
"A "Thank You" -beyond words- to all of you - you lived up
to all Northern hospitality fame. Hope to cross paths
again!
Thelma Howard
(2003)
Saskatoon, SK
Visiting the tundra at the headwaters of the legendary
Thelon River was one of the most exciting experiences of my life. I came
for the musk oxen and the caribou, but left with ever so much more. The
exceptional beauty of the area begs for superlatives, but all of them seem
trite in comparison to the incredible feelings generated by one of the
most profoundly stirring landscapes in Canada. The huge rolling sand
eskers covered in a mantle of bearberries, and a host of other colorful
tundra plants, seemed too red to be real. They almost looked more like
planted hanging gardens than nature at her best! The feeling of solitude
and wilderness became most acute under the breathtaking night sky as
aurora danced and sang their hypnotic music of the spheres. No one could
look up at the shows we experienced and not feel a sense of awe and
humility. It was a real treat to see and share in the passion you and your
staff so obviously feels toward the North. Your stories about the early
aboriginal inhabitants, and the explorers and trappers who followed them,
made history come alive. No one could visit your camp without a new
respect for God's country and all who have dared to call it home. Let's
hope that the Thelon watershed remains a sanctuary for generations to
come, especially for the wildlife and plants, which thrive only when given
room to breath. I have traveled to many places in Canada and other parts
of the world, but few have ever stirred me so deeply as the tundra and the
wildlife at Whitefish Lake. In my mind I am back there
already."
Dennis Fast
/
Wildlife Photographer
Kleefield,
Manitoba (2003)
"The Thelon: - a true northern jewel - unique and of far
greater value that all the diamonds in the NWT - alive, radiant, bustling
with life. What a wonderful experience. It's one that I've already begun
to share with others. A heartfelt thanks to Allicia, Andrew, Terry and
Larry for -sharing their knowledge and skills in such a range of areas
(biology, botany, archaeology, history, geology, scouting, guiding,
cooking, baking.) -making everyone feel at home"
Anke Tuininga (2003)
Yellowknife,
NT
"My week at your camp was magical. I am definitely bitten by
the Barrenlands. The landscape during that autumn week was a
photographer's paradise. But the uncompromising quality of that land is
nothing short of spiritual. To be able to witness the Caribou and their
environment as they've always been was a great privilege. The camp was
perfect. I'm so glad I had the chance to be there this year before the new
Quonset is built. I'm sure it will be a great addition for everyone,
especially the staff, but I loved that little cabin and its little sitting
room/library. Your staffs are all unique individuals and each one made an
important contribution to my time there. There knowledge and love of the
tundra was evident and they each had the ability to make me feel that I,
along with the others in the group, were the only guests they had all
year! Your own love and commitment to the Barrens is obvious and I'm so
glad that in the short time I was there I got to learn a bit about the
history and politics of the area. Thank you Tom for a wonderful
experience. I hope to return."
Gwen Curry / Photographer
Brentwood Bay, BC
(2003)
An absolutely wonderful experience! I have traveled from
Circle City, Alaska to Tierra del Fuego, through the Rockies and Andes and
into the Amazon, and to Nepal and Southeast Asia. I worked as a naturalist
guide in the Galapagos Islands and as a park interpreter in Banff National
Park. My wife and I have hiked and backpacked throughout wilderness areas
in the Rockies, Andes and in the Himalaya. In all of my travels, I have
never experienced a sense of awe as I experienced in the Barren Lands on
my trip with you last September. It is still an experience and a feeling
that is difficult to express in words. The Barren Lands are the heart and
soul of not only Canada, but all of North America. It is the incredible
expanse of untouched wilderness that brings us so much closer to Nature
and ourselves. You, your guides, cooks and support staff are all to be
commended for being sensitive to both the natural and cultural heritage of
these lands and for promoting their protection.
Jeff
Waugh /
B.Sc. Wildlife Science
Inti
Travel and Tours, Inc. (2003 & 2005)
Banff,
Alberta
"I was on the Thelon River trip [Wardens Grove-Thelon
Expedition] that Judith Niemi led in mid-July. I wanted to thank you for
all that you did to make my Thelon experience so wonderful. I truly
enjoyed the sense of freedom, the silence, the space, and the chance to
experience the beauty of the Thelon. I am homesick for the Arctic and hope
to return someday. I've attached a collage of some photos from my trip.
The picture with the cliffs on the left and the canoe in the water is
going to be published in an upcoming Sunday edition of the Fargo Forum.
The newspaper has a weekly feature where they publish interesting vacation
photos from local readers. This photo will have a brief description of my
trip. I've given a presentation on the Thelon to the local Kiwanis club
and I am going to present similar information to a group of people at
Microsoft. It was a wonderful place to visit and definitely deserves the
attention."
Tonya Fehr
(2003)
Lisbon, ND
"I just wanted to touch base with you and thank you once
again for an outstanding barrenlands experience with you and your staff. I
learned so much about your area and all that it has to offer. It was
really valuable to experience everything first hand and get to know how
you operate. I've gone through my pictures with everyone I know and people
comment on how passionate I am about what I'm telling them, from the
history to the landforms to the wildlife, oh yes the fish too! I hope that
you will be able to pass along my comments to your staff. The staff did an
exceptional job accommodating the multiple interests of the group each
day, and showing patience with all. The interpretive trips were great.
Once we found the animals, the guides did a great job ensuring that we got
closer for good observation, without being obtrusive and that the viewing
opportunities were maximized. It was obvious that all your staff cares a
great deal about their work and they understand how important customer
service is. I felt that they did an exceptional job in keeping the
interpretive hikes fresh, even though they've done it dozens/hundreds of
times before. This is a key point for me as an agent who will send my
clients there, and all your staff deserves a big pat on the back for that.
The camp and the day's activities were very well organized, and everything
ran smoothly. The staff followed a tireless routine and everything was
kept amazingly clean. The meals were great, really impressive considering
the logistics, and even though I burnt off thousands of calories each day,
I actually put on a few pounds while I was there. The fishing was good and
I wish I had another week there to truly 'bond' with those big lakers. The
barrenlands are a wonderful place to be: seemingly empty, yet so rich with
history, plants, birds and animals. I'm quite drawn to this land that you
love so much and I am beginning to understand why you call it home and why
it is so special to you. I've got a lot more reading to do and I'm going
to seek out some of the titles from your library. There were a couple of
special moments for me when I was there, and I'm sure all of your guests
have them. For me the best was when I was sitting down by the creek trying
to figure out which lure to use next when a gyrfalcon came lazily along
the shoreline, flying low, totally oblivious to my presence and when he
saw me, he came closer and actually hovered above me for 3-4 seconds and
then continued on his hunt over toward Indian Lake. He was so close I
could have touched him with the end of my fly rod. A couple of other
moments were the musk ox stalk (where he was stalking us!) and when Vicki
and I were on the Sandy River portage and we came very close to a small
herd of about 15 caribou. The history of 'Gusland' and the spiritual rock
by the creek also had an effect on me. The challenges that your region is
facing from mining interests are massive. There is no doubt that the
wildlife and the ecosystem will be impacted. Your operations, as with most
tourism interests, are a sustainable type of development that impacts
natural environments very little. If you ever need my company to speak up
on behalf of your operations, the Thelon region in terms of its value as
an intact ecosystem, tourism potential and value, etc. please do not
hesitate to contact me and let me know what I can do. If you are ever in
the Edmonton area and need a place to stay, Vicki and I would be pleased
to have you come out to our home east of Edmonton and spend some time with
us, and by all means come by the office anytime and say hello. Thanks
again for the opportunity to experience your camp at Whitefish Lake, your
gracious hospitality and the terrific contrasts of the
tundra."
Jim Storey /
President and Managing Partner
The Great Canadian Adventure
Company
Edmonton. AB (2003 & 2006)
"Must write to tell you how much we enjoyed our trip
[Dance with Wolves] with Great Canadian Ecoventures this summer. It was
wonderful to be able to visit such a remote and atmospheric part of
Canada. It is a cliché to talk of timeless landscapes but one could easily
imagine bands of stone age hunters crossing the tundra, which seemed to go
on forever. Seeing exciting species like white tundra Wolves, Musk Oxen
and birds like Yellow Billed Loon and nesting gyrFalcon was of course the
highlight of the trip. However, just to be in such a fantastic and
unspoiled environment made the long journey from England worthwhile. The
camp at Whitefish Lake, although delightfully simple was comfortable and
provided everything we needed. We really enjoyed meeting all the GCE staff
including Andy, Denise, Kyle, Brad, Greg, Terry and, of course, you, Tom!
All were friendly, helpful and enthusiastic lovers of the wilderness. We
have made several trips to many exciting parts of the world in pursuit of
wilderness and wildlife but this one stands out as one of the more
memorable. The only depressing aspect was learning of the threat which
commercial diamond mining poses to this pristine area. This is
particularly upsetting coming as we do from England where the entire
wilderness was destroyed centuries ago. Many thanks for a wonderful trip
and hope to see you again one day."
Don and Sandra
Otter (2003)
Berkhamsted, England
"I had an excellent trip with you and your staff and have
not stopped telling people it is the best northern adventure I have had.
If I can do it I want to go again possibly next year. It is truly a
fascinating part of the world that is available only to a lucky few but
must be kept as is to protect what is so unique. Your ability to add some
of the historical information about some of the early Dene' and people
like Gus Daoust is valuable. Best wishes to you on your flying and in
organizing and booking again for next year."
Hon. Joseph Handley
(2003)
Premier
Government of the NWT
Yellowknife,
NWT
"Words seem so pitifully inadequate to describe the Barrenlands of the Northwest Territories. The landscape, wildlife and weather all combine to make this the most unique environment that I have photographed. Just the immense vastness of the country would have been enough of a reminder of how insignificant our self-acclaimed importance really is. But add to the remoteness of that space the extraordinary geology, evidence of pre-history, and the awesome celestial display of the Aurora Borealis, one's soul is deeply touched and changed forever. Even without my passion for nature photography I could have spent every minute of every day in awe of the environment. Although my passion was rewarded constantly either with a magnificent landscape, abstract macro, or unique wildlife photo opportunity, the images brought back on film can not compare to the rich memories of the experience of this place. The comradely and bonding; being dropped off by float plane to stalk prehistoric Musk-ox on a barren landscape; ancient stone artifacts reminding us of the passing of time and a primitive existence from the earth; and on Wednesday: wind, rain, hail, sun, snow, clouds, and a double rainbow from horizon to horizon. Tundra Tom provides an incredible tour to such a remote and harsh area. Without a doubt, the base camp at Whitefish Lake is the most comfortably appointed wilderness camp I have stayed in with hot showers, heated tents, and even a cozy library. The well-stocked larder is complimented by freshly caught lake trout or grayling cooked on the grill. Tundra biscuits and bannock bread. The question is not when will I return, but rather, for how long?"
Stephen G.
Maka /
Photographer
Sherborn, MA (1999, 2000, 2003)
"I took a couple of days off work and took my 14-year-old
daughter Catherine out on a naturalist trip to the tundra for four days.
We went to Whitefish Lake (between here and the border of Nunavut, just
before the Thelon Game Sanctuary). We went with Great Canadian Ecoventures
on their "Dance with Wolves" program. Cat, of course, loves everything to
do with wolves, asked if we could go on the trip about a month ago. So I
checked it out with Great Canadian Ecoventures and booked us to go. We had
a great time - lots of outdoor time. We were up most mornings between 7:30
and 9:00 for breakfast and were out walking the tundra in search of
wildlife for about four hours, back to camp for lunch or we brought our
our lunch, then out again in the afternoon for four hours, back to camp
for supper, then out again in the evening for a few hours and back to camp
for bed. It was awesome!! The tundra is so spectacular and so amazing with
plant life and wildlife. We got to see a huge white wolf, a herd of 21
musk oxen, a blue fox, two white caribou, an arctic hare, a gyrfalcon and
her nest, a moose way off in the distance, various other birds, a sic-sic
that lived around the camp and a lemming that kept sneaking into the
kitchen. For me personally, the weather was a little too hot for all the
hiking we did across the tundra, as we went through sand, moss, lichen,
hummocks, marsh, high eskers, ridges and hills. Although some of the time
there was a nice wind blowing to keep us cool and the bugs away. But the
scenery was well worth the heat - it was so humbling to see the vastness
of the land - like you could see tomorrow if you kept looking across the
horizon! The staffs at the camp were absolutely wonderful and so
knowledgeable about the area as the three guides have been working there
between three to seven years. Our camp cook and part-time guide, Denise is
a nurse from Rae who took time off work to go work in the camp for ten
days! Food was excellent and the company was great. Cat and I flew out
with six other people so there was eight of us with four guides. One of
the guests already out at camp is a professional photographer from Alaska
and he was out all hours of the day taking photos. He watched Cat do some
drawings and gave her $60 to do a drawing for him of a wolf! He was
impressed with her drawings and how she seemed to have a picture already
in mind as she drew - she didn't even stop to think of what she was
drawing and where to put things, she just went ahead and did it. Two other
fellows had great cameras with a couple of different lenses - a macro and
zoom. They got our email addresses so they can pass around pictures they
took at camp. I took a few photos of the musk oxen and am hoping they will
turn out. I wasn't thinking fast enough when we saw the wolf so I missed
taking a photo of that. But I am not worried as I know that two of the
guys had their cameras trained on the wolf before he ran so we will get
some good photos from them. All in all, we had a great time and hope to go
back next September for the caribou migration."
Barb Dillon
Yellowknife, NT
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"Never had I imagined when I booked my trip to the NWT that
it would have such an impact on my soul. What I discovered was abundant
beauty at every turn - reflections in a glacial lake at first light, the
perfect silence of the land (to be broken only by the wind stirring in the
white pines), brilliant green northern lights dancing in the night sky,
double rainbows appearing over whitefish lake, holding a 4,000 year old
arrowhead in my hand, seeing my first grizzly track and a whole bunch of
wolf tracks, and baby ptarmigans playing in the willows -- to name a few.
I met some really interesting people on the trip and I know they were as
appreciative of the land and the animals as I was. The thrill of a
face-to-face (or I suppose it was face to snout) encounter with the
shaggy, prehistoric and magical Musk ox was something that I could not
have even imagined. I could have lain out on the tundra for the entire day
just watching the Musk ox sleep, graze, socialize, and move around! The
Musk ox and all of the animals that we saw had a natural curiosity about
us and made viewing them special indeed. Tundra Tom and Andrew, the lead
guide, were very respectful of the animals and made sure to balance our
experience with the animals' comfort of us being there. Canadians should
know that they are heirs to an extraordinarily rich and unique ecosystem
that should be protected and appreciated - that which is called the
Thelon. Taking a trip with Tundra Tom gave me the rare privilege to
experience the Thelon in all of its fall glory. I'd highly recommend that
anyone take a trip with Great Canadian Ecoventures. They take such
wonderful care of their guests - from the hikes, the historical/local
information and stories, to the wonderful meals and comfortable tents!
When I came home to Toronto, my friends asked what the "best" part of my
trip was. I found that a very difficult thing to answer because I couldn't
think of just one. The entire trip was enchanting. The land was more
touched by wonder and possibility than any since that I have known. I hope
to return again!"
Tracey Hawken (2002)
Marketing Executive and
Photographer
Winnipeg, MB
"We had great expectations of our trip to the tundra and had
been looking forward to the adventure for 8 months. In our imaginations we
had very high hopes-which made it difficult for anything to live up to
them. But we were not disappointed. Our guides were knowledgeable,
creative, and considerate. From the first meeting we were put at our ease
and introduced to the wonders of the surrounding Esker, given time to
enjoy it on our own, or to join the forays to search for wildlife. It was
obvious that animals had no fear of the inhabitants of the camp, as
caribou wandered nonchalantly through the area. While we watched and
photographed there was always a strong feeling of respect and awe for the
life on the Tundra. It was a unique experience, and a privilege, to be so
close to wildlife in a non-threatening, and non-combative scenario. I have
to congratulate Tundra Tom on his vision and ability to inspire others
with his deep love of the Tundra. I hope that many more visitors will be
able to experience the wild places in the future."
Tessa Jamieson, Pauline
Campbell
Victoria, BC, Canada
"The Canadian Tundra is truly a vast and exciting place
to visit no matter what your reasons. You can see things in the tundra
that are not available anywhere else. The incredible scenery was more than
I expected. To be able to view musk ox and white wolves was a bonus on top
of everything else. The Ecoventures guides and accommodations were second
to none. We had great meals at every serving; all with that good ole home
cooking flavor. The guide service was very accommodating to our every
whim. Even though I was there for photography; on one of the slow days one
of the guides took me fishing for lake trout. What more can I say except
thanks for the great memories!"
Russ
Rozell
Houston, TX
"From the moment I boarded the bush plane and started out, I
realized that this was going to be like no other adventure I had been on.
The expanse and pristine beauty went on forever. There is a wonderful
sense of time/timelessness about the place. At once there was immediacy
where the place, the animals and weather set the course of the day and at
the same time seeing thousands of years of migration tracks linked now to
an ancient time. Your reading stories about the place gave a depth to the
experience that was palpable. Andy and Alicia were excellent guides and
the accommodations were great. As I arrived at camp I felt my soul let
down and relax in a way that I hadn't felt in a long time. In fact that
was the hardest part about leaving. I wrestled with myself for weeks
getting used to the confines of my life. I highly recommend Tom and his
crew. You will have an amazing journey."
Jim
Ambrogi
Erwinna, PA
"I don't have words to describe this truly awesome place and
the feelings it provoked in me. Immersed in a world of orange and red,
among ghost-like moving musk oxen and curious caribous I enjoyed every
minute of it. Unexpectedly Tom made one of my dreams come true. For my
second week of "Dance with the Caribou" he offered to fly me out for my
own little canoe adventure. Andrew and Alicia did their best to outfit me
with a superb tent and whatever else I needed or liked. Thank you all for
going the extra mile."
Christine Rennhard (2002)
Adliswil,
Switzerland
"It is hard to describe the richness of my experiences
in the vast Arctic tundra and sandy eskers. There is no question that the
land, the sky, the waters, the winds and the creatures that inhabit them
are as alive as you and I. In the huge silence and wildness of the place I
discovered their voices and felt their spirits with all my being. This is
a place outside of time as we know it. Its memories are etched in the face
of the earth, held in the stones and kept alive through the migrations of
caribou and musk ox. It was healing for me to be so totally in the moment,
to remember that part of myself that loves the untamed wild. It was a
pleasure to play outside for so many hours and to return to camp, happy,
tired and hungry, to a warm kitchen, great food, a hot shower and a cozy
bed. You and your staff were caring, knowledgeable and competent. Your
love of this place is heartfelt and it translates to the experiences of
your guests. Thank you for a remarkable adventure. Please give my regards
to Andy, Alicia and Kate."
Karen
Ambrogi
Erwinna, PA 18920
"My Great Canadian Ecoventures trip on the Clarke-Thelon
River Expedition in July 2002 was one of the most fascinating, beautiful,
remote, challenging, and fun experiences I have ever had. I can't imagine
a better way to experience Arctic tundra vegetation and wildlife. The
Thelon is such a magnet for animals I've never been able to see before -
caribou, grizzly bears, Arctic wolves, musk oxen, jaegers, Arctic loons,
and more. The amazing variety of blooming wildflowers also kept me busy
and entertained - heaven for a plant ecologist. While I am an experienced
wilderness traveler, this is the most remote trip I've taken, and I'm
grateful for your help in making it possible. It really helped to have the
resources you provided before the trip too, including your terrific web
site with its many links and maps. I really appreciate the sensitivity you
show to the Thelon's ecosystems, and the respect you have for the area's
wildlife. It's not easy to provide access to remote wilderness areas while
also helping to protect them, but I feel that Canadian Ecoventures does
that. Thank you again - "
Hannah Dunevitz
(2002)
Plant Ecologist
Minnesota Department of Natural
Resources
"Thanks, Tom, for a wonderful experience {Clarke-Thelon
River Expedition}; the Thelon is a splendid place, and it was a rare
privilege to travel through an area that's both so wild (we saw ten times
the musk ox I've seen on other Arctic trips - combined!) and so full of
the history of the peoples who have lived and hunted there for so long. We
stopped at several archeological sites, and I remember thinking, "Yes,
this feels like wilderness, but to the people who camped and hunted here,
this was the 'supermarket'.. And to be there with an all-women's group was
special, too, as it was to travel with someone who cares so much for
protecting such a unique place and its inhabitants."
Virginia Hoeffding
(2002 & 2003)
Ashland, MA
"It's been two months now since my adventure with the
caribou. Usually that is time enough for things to settle back down so
that I can look back and make a reasonable assessment on a past trip. But
I've got to tell you - even now, whenever I think back on my adventure to
the Thelon I get just as thrilled and excited as when I was actually
there. I chose this trip, as a photographer, because I wanted to give
myself the best possible opportunity to watch and experience the movement
of caribou across a landscape filled with blazing autumn colors. My hopes
and expectations were met beyond what I could have imagined. The
experiences with the musk ox and wolves added even more to this
magnificent trip. I love getting away to remote areas. Your well-put
together base camp gave me this without having to suffer through the
little inconveniences that can sometimes be found when spending time in
such a wild area. I thoroughly enjoyed every moment spent with your kind
and helpful guides and in fact I had a great time with everyone I met
during my stay on the tundra. The Thelon is one of those regions were each
trip just beckons you to come back. That's what it has done for me anyhow.
I intend to set up a return stay for two weeks in September 2004. Thanks
Tom for a most memorable journey. Hope to see you and your crew
again."
Kenny Bahr /
Photographer
Falls City, ND (2002, 2004)
"Dancing with the Caribou! I thought this was a gimmick
- only to find that it's for real, it's fun, and it works. We had so much
fun watching the curiosity of the caribou as we 'danced them in' close
enough for some great pictures. It was just as much fun to dance enough so
that they were not spooked and still able to graze unhindered as we
watched. . This was my second trip with Ecoventures - I attended Dance
with Wolves in 2001. So many memories a land so vast that it appeared
empty. Yet upon closer look, so full of life. Lichens crunching beneath
our boots. Scents of Labrador Tea as we brush through the depressions on
the tundra. Hummock hopping. Walking through the sand. Endless supplies of
blueberries and cranberries. A prehistoric looking musk ox peeking at us
through the trees on the esker: has he seen a human before? A young
caribou edging ever closer to us. A quick and urgent look around upon
finding the relatively fresh tracks of a Barrens Grizzly. Caribou tracks
followed by two sets of wolf tracks. A fox suddenly trotting in front of
us across the sand. Solitary caribou gradually forming small groups as the
week progressed. Stone flakes recently uncovered by the wind indicating an
old Indian chipping site where weapons were patiently made while awaiting
the caribou crossing. 8,000 years of history. How can there be so much
history in this vast expanse of land? The evidence is everywhere. Four
Indian log cabins at the true headwaters of the Thelon River. Andrew's
spellbinding and heart wrenching interpretive on the End of the History on
our final day; the Etthen Eldeli; the graves; our tears. Howling winds.
Pounding waves on the lake during a gale. Rainbows. A double rainbow. Ears
straining to hear a sound in the deafening silence. Eyes straining to find
the movement of wildlife on a land so still. Readings about life in the
Thelon. Living in the moment with no set plans because all activities are
determined by the weather or by the sudden appearance of wildlife.
Feelings of excitement; of peace. Andrew and Alicia were great. They very
willingly shared their knowledge and researched in your library the things
they didn't know. There were group excursions yet always time to
experience this beautiful land on our own. And Kate, such a presence at
camp and could she cook! Camp has so many comforts of home including
showers and a library. The Thelon area is so important to this world. Why?
It's Paradise on Earth is Even if I can't be there now, I just need to
know it's there, wild and free. Please let me know what I can do to help
protect this precious place. PLEASE WRITE YOUR
BOOK!!!"
Terry
Lindberg (2001, 2002 & 2006)
Northboro, MA
"I am so glad my daughter, Terry, asked me to return to the
Barrens with her with year, she had been last year! And that I was brave
enough to endure the plane rides to get there. I have done a lot of
traveling by car around the United States and have seen most of our
country. But all of that didn't prepare me for the Barrens. It was
exceptionally beautiful, peaceful, quiet and lonely. I think you can't
really understand the land without knowing how people lived there. And the
readings done by Andrew, Alicia and you made the land come to life. I
think the land has crept into my soul. One morning I was up very early and
got to watch 6 caribou grazing their way across the ridge behind camp,
along with a gorgeous sunrise. They didn't know I was there and came quite
close to me. Another time Kate (your cook) spotted a musk ox and she, with
three of us, crept in very close for pictures. But probably the highlight
would have to be just sitting on the tundra (soaking up the silence) and
having lunch in the warm sunshine with Andrew and our small group after we
had "danced" some caribou in fairly close. Andrew and Alicia both work
very hard and long days to make things just right for us - and safe. I
greatly appreciated their efforts. They really worked as a team themselves
and brought all of us together, and they passed on their love of the land
and their respect for all plants and animals."
Betty Lindberg (2002 & 2006)
Stow,
MA
"I would like to express how much I loved my Barrenland
adventure in August 2002. I cannot even begin to describe how amazing the
tundra actually is. When we arrived there, I was absolutely amazed by the
vastness and the beautiful expanses. I though that even if I did not see
one animal the entire time I was there, I would have left fulfilled and
satisfied due to the fact that the landscape is so alive. The sunrises and
sunsets were huge and full of extreme reds and yellows. Everything is in
extremes. The colors of the ground were like none I had ever seen before
greens turning to mauves and reds. The lichens on the rocks and boulders
were delicate and awesome. The moss around the glacial pools was almost
florescent green, and the water was the brightest blue that I have ever
seen. It is simply amazing to look around. The wind seemed ceaseless for
the first few days, (and I m a prairie gal who is used to wind). Then we
had an actual _windstorm!_ I could not believe the force of the wind! It
was positively humbling and exhilarating. Even the blueberries were in
extreme amounts. There were places where they were so thick that they were
crushed in great amounts under our feet! When the sun shone, it warmed us
up instantly, and when the clouds came out, there was a definite chill!
The sand eskers are beautiful. It is so surprising to see them lying on
the tundra like huge snakes. We walked the eskers every day, exploring the
immense amount of life that they hold. We saw wolf dens, mushrooms,
flowers, birds of all kinds, fox dens, sic-sic holes, as well as caribou,
musk ox and wolf tracks everywhere, including in the camp when we returned
from our walks! We also saw places where the First Nations people had
lived, leaving house remnants, chipping stations and stone rings from
their tents behind. We saw areas where trappers lived, and places of great
archeological and geological interest. Soon after we arrived we began to
see caribou. They seemed to be on every hill and around every corner once
we knew what to look for. We came across a musk ox one day - a little too
close for my taste! Then a different musk ox came and sat down on the
esker, overlooking the base camp! It sat there for 2 hours before moving
on. We could hear the wolves howling during the day and in the night.
Several mornings they left their tracks around our tents as well. Yikes!
There are places out on the tundra that are so moving and spiritual that
they cannot be described in words. They are to be experienced in your
soul. Tundra Tom (and his guides Andrew and Alicia) knows this area very
well. We were taken on unbelievable excursions. Tundra Tom did the 'Dance
with the Caribou' with a few of us. I had no idea what to expect. We
spotted a few caribou from the boat, and before I knew it, we had pulled
up on shore. We crept up to the top of a hill, were laying on our bellies,
and all of a sudden, there was Tom, arms up, snorting and running around.
I could not believe my eyes when the caribou came closer, prancing and
snorting, to see him. He had actually called them in! My heart was
pounding with excitement! It was truly amazing. The accommodations and
food far exceeded my expectations. The tents were comfy and spacious.
There was a shower house with hot running water. We had meals like
lasagna, steak and potatoes, bacon and eggs, salads, soups, desserts
absolutely delicious meals prepared by the guides with exceptional service
as well. Andrew and Alicia went far beyond what they needed to do to keep
us comfortable. I felt very pampered. I cannot say enough about this
incredible place and the people who are involved with the operations. I am
so full of gratitude for the opportunity to see and experience the tundra
with this group of people. My life has truly been enriched. I am more than
willing to describe this place to anyone who is interested in going!
Thanks Tom."
Lisa Clouston (2002)
Winnipeg,
MB
"Whitefish Lake is at a beautiful location offering great
day hikes over the esker and the tundra. The trips by boat showed us
additional interesting and scenic spots beyond hiking range. The staff was
intimately acquainted with the terrain, and very helpful in guiding us to
places of interest. You delivered all we could expect in fall migration
caribou watching. The "dance" technique worked marvelously. Marilyn and I
used it with great success on excursions out on our own. It brought lots
of caribou into close viewing range--within a dozen meters on the best
try. We would still like to see the mass spring migration sometime, but
having failed to see a single caribou at a planned rendezvous with the
Porcupine herd last year, we are aware of the gamble involved.) Having hot
water available for showers and washing a little clothing was an
unaccustomed but much-enjoyed luxury at a campsite. So was a warm dining
room. We are more used to sitting on the ground while eating in camp. The
spacious sleeping accommodations make storage of gear and changing clothes
easy. The lamp and heater were a nice touch, though we seldom used them.
Being able to sleep on a foam pad on a raised platform meant that a good
sleeping bag provided adequate warmth. In summary, we had a wonderful
time, got some good photos, and returned with memories that will be
cherished for a long time. Thanks for making such a memorable experience
possible!"
Richard & Marilyn
Bates (2002)
Guerneville, CA
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"The business of photography can take one many places.I've been in the business many years and have been fortunate to have visited (on assignment) nearly 50 countries. In that time, you do have your favorites, each bringing up a different set of memories: some good, some bad, some utterly life-changing and stamped indelibly in your mind. I've worked quite a bit in northern Canada and Alaska on assignments for National Geographic and Conde Nast Traveler. My assignment from Traveler, late in the summer of 2000, was to photograph Canada's Thelon Wildlife Sanctuary and third-generation guide "Tundra Tom". I'd never been fortunate enough to visit "Shield Country", and was not sure what to expect. The "Dance with Caribou" part was something I had no idea about. The entire trip/experience proved to be one of the incredible memories in this career. The eskers, the light, the wildlife (musk-ox, arctic wolves, caribou, all as guaranteed) as well as the companionship (and food) and expertise of Tom and staff naturalist Terry Elliott was staggering. In between assignments, sitting in my office, daydreaming of where I would like to be, Tom's camp and surrounding wonderland keeps creeping to the top of my list."
Jay
Dickman
(Pulitzer Prize Winner Photojournalist)
Littelton,
Colorado (2001)
"I've worked all over the world, including Antarctica, and the Thelon is one of the most unforgettable places of all. It touches a human deeply and originally - not just to know that such an intact, alive landscape still exists, but to actually feel it. Thanks for providing such a beautiful, memorable, and expert entry into that exalted space."
Alan
Weisman /
Journalist
Conde Nast Traveler Magazine
Tuscon, Arizona
(2001)
"I just wanted to say that my experiences on the 'Dance with Caribou' trip are ones that I will treasure for a lifetime. I was with the Lonnie Brock group. You provided an excellent wilderness experience in a beautiful place. I am planning at present be up again in 2003. I look forward to seeing you all and your beautiful country again at that time. I should also mention that your crew was professional in every way. Terry kept us all out of harms way and taught us so much. Larry, Andrew, Mike, and Steve were pros as well. I truly treasure my experience and look to have another great one in 2003. Thanks so much and continued success to you. You provide the kind of wilderness experiences that should be a model for other eco-tourist type businesses."
Bill
Darmitzel
Tucson, Arizona (2001 & 2004)
"Thank you again for offering such a wonderful experience in the Barrens! I had the time of my life up there! I've wanted to be in the Barrens for twenty-four years and this was a dream come true for me. As you already know, because you told us, Terry is a phenomenal guide. He worked extremely hard to ensure that we all found what we were looking for in this trip. He shared his vast knowledge of the area with us, which helped the land "come alive". I felt I was able to glimpse the lives of those who lived there in the past. Additionally, his ethics are beyond reproach. I wanted to see the wildlife without causing them any real stress or disturbing them in any way because we were there only for a short time and this was their home. Andrew is a great guide as well. He was very generous with his time, patience and knowledge and within a very short time, I was able to find my way anywhere on the esker. Like Terry, he is very easy-going and very willing to help in any way. His ethics in how the wildlife is treated is admirable. You are fortunate to have them both. I expected to be thrilled to see the wildlife, and I was. I never expected to be so deeply touched by the land and it's history. Often on my solo walks, in my mind's eye, I could envision the Natives going through their daily lives in their camps. Envisioning the last gathering at the "Rock" was especially moving. It was hard for me to believe that a land so vast and so apparently empty could be so full of life as well as so full of voices from the past if one were willing to listen. I hope to return again, hopefully next year, to see the caribou, but even more importantly, just to once again be in the Barrens. Have a great season! Thanks again!"
Terry
Lindberg
Northboro, MA (2001 & 2002)
"I want to thank you all for your suggestion of the Snowdrift River as a adventure destination for our family. I had reservations about not going back to the tundra as we had in our previous trip through you, but those reservations were wiped away when we set up our first campsite along the river. The beauty of the river and shoreline was outstanding. Most every campsite allowed us to camp in the shelter of trees, setting the tent on moss and lichen, but also to have great sandy beaches sloping to the water. Many a day we broke camp only to find even better site just around the corner. Musk ox and Moose were everywhere coming down to the river to watch us pass with curiosity. One musk oxen even spent the evening with us on one of those sandy beaches. We heard wolfs, saw black bears and many birds. Caribou antlers lined the river, but we did not see any live caribou. The current on the river was a pleasant surprise. I had some concern that the river flow would not help us along, but to my surprise we had excellent flow all the way down to the take out. On that last night on the big lake, we heard loons. In the morning we found a flock of baby loon on our beach who, along with us, was surprised as your plane came in. Your pick up and delivery service is the best. Our experience of traveling in the arctic for over 20 years has usually been hurry up and wait. Your staff was helpful, cooperative, timely and competent. I was most pleased with them and even a little embarrassed to fine that we were not prepared to leave when you arrived to pick us up, therefore making you wait.. Thanks Tom for your suggestion of the Snowdrift River and timely pick ups, and thanks to your staff for their assistance. You can expect to see us again and again!!
Sandy, Brittni, &
Eric Bailey
Canoe Outfitters of Florida, Inc.
Jupiter, Florida
(2001)
"Every few years my brother and I get together for a trip. He lives in California USA and I live in London Ontario Canada. 2001 would be another expedition that would give me lifetime memories. Larry my brother has traveled with "Tundra Tom" many times in the NWT. When I arrived at the Yellowknife airport it was like I have never left this great land of ours. Tom with his smiling face and ready to drop us off at the Mighty Finnie River. Anyways..as things go. My brother missed his flight! So I experienced Yellowknife and all it had to offer. Great friendly people and excellent site seeing. I heard the last time people canoed the Finnie was in the 80's. We were finally on our way. Tom and my brother were discussing where we could land and get on the headwaters of the Finnie. Of coarse, Tom knew a place and we were there. 10 days of canoeing, camping, exploring, fishing and wildlife viewing. We caught grayling, pike and lake trout. We saw musk oxen, caribou, ptarmigan, peregrine falcon, wolves and plenty of mosquitoes. We also saw patches of snow and ice (the end of July). The scenery was unbelievable. I do mean it! This trip was the best wildlife viewing area I have ever experienced. Actually we had a heard of 300+ caribou pass right by our camp. I get chills thinking about it. Till next time!"
Jerry
Kwicinski
Ducks Unlimited Canada
London, ON
(2001)
"We had a brilliant (Dance with Wolves) trip, and it has been thought about a lot as our son Miles had to do a holiday project this summer, and he eventually produced 2 volumes about our 2 weeks at the upper Thelon camp! Although the daily hikes were longer than first expected, in fact we felt that it made seeing the wolves feel like much more of an adventure! We had been worried about spending 2 weeks in one place, but we agreed that the chance to relax and spend time on the tundra made us appreciate it that much more. We thought all guides were wonderful, and very tolerant of the children, who all really appreciated the conversations and information, as did we. The cooking was very good. We thought the accommodations were also very good, and hot showers were an enormous bonus. We certainly hope to return. We feel that the tundra has taken possession of us! We would be very happy for you to use our comments for customer testimonials. The memory of our trip has not faded and we all look back on it as a most fantastic experience, which we hope to repeat. Our very best wishes for Christmas and the New Year. I certainly wish we could take one of your winter trips!"
Charlotte & Tim
Shipton Richmond,
Surrey, England (2001)
"What I now feel of the Thelon: I am now in "Arctic Fever"! When I was at Ft. Good Hope, the elders said "if you really want to see the paradise on earth, just go to Barren Land". When I got my first sight of vast Tundra, I feel like I was in hell because I did not know how to survive there and it looked to me there was nothing there. But day-by-day I recognized there was everything I wanted. Life of every living thing, even little grass and small bush, has a lot of power and spirit. Then it became one of my heavens in northern Canadian wilderness. Next summer, I will paddle down the Thelon River all through to Baker Lake spending three month. I am looking forward to get back to Thelon so much now! Camp: It was too comfortable to me. I could not feel it was in the middle of wilderness. Hot shower... good meals! It was one of my best trips that I ever experienced!"
Katsuyuki Tanaka /
Writer
Chiba-shi, Japan (2001)
"Just a short note to let you know how much I enjoyed my time canoeing down the Thelon River and exploring the eskers around Whitefish Lake with staff and patrons of Great Canadian Ecoventures. From the moment I was picked up at Yellowknife to the morning I returned to the airport, your staff not only made me feel at home but their enthusiasm only increased my anticipation and enjoyment of the trip. Once we started canoeing the Thelon, Terry and Andrew's knowledge of the birds, animals and fauna, kept me enthralled. They definitely do know their business. The meals were exceptional and chef's should consult them for advice. From crystal clear waters to tundra, criss-crossed with caribou trails, the Thelon River and the barren land area we passed through is the most incredible area I have ever seen. Sighting a pure white artic wolf leaving it's den and watching a herd of musk ox grazing are moments which still amaze me. Wolf tracks and musk ox tracks, going by the camps serve as constant reminders that it is we who are intruding in their domain. The vastness of the territory is unbelievable. The sunsets and sunrises are awe-inspiring. I feel honored to have had the opportunity to observe such a fantastic wilderness area. Keep it Pristine. Again, many thanks to yourself, Tom, to your guides, Terry and Andrew and to Larry and Mike--you all made my trip unforgettable!"
Al
MacPherson
Victoria, BC (2001)
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"Hi Tom! There were really several parts to our Great Summer Caribou Migration that made this a fantastic trip. First, the research into the tundra before we left home: We read several books about the current state of the ecosystem and also about the history. This meshed perfectly with your team's interest and the stories you read us and told us about this beautiful area. Exploring the archeology of old camps and natural history of the esker was a treat! We really felt part of land because of your knowledge. Second, getting the right gear and camera equipment. I was very happy to have comfortable, bug proof, dry gear. You, Terry, and Craig enabled us to take some of the best pictures ever. We photographed musk ox, caribou, wolves and wolf puppies, many kinds of birds and of course the incredible scenery, sunsets, sun rises, and the full moon! Third, the staff: I had a sense that we had chosen our adventure for 2000 correctly when Naomi met us at the airport and helped us to the hotel. The extra time you spent with us the day before we left to familiarize us with the trip and the staff was great. I should not forget the wildlife biologist you arranged to have meet with us to talk about interacting with the caribou and how they live. We felt very fortunate to have help from Terry - an experienced and capable naturalist - who really knew about the tundra, and his ability to research, from your compact but effective library any unanswered questions. Craig can cook! And, he like everyone else was eager to help us with anything that would make our trip more comfortable and enjoyable. I always felt safe in the air, whether I was with you or Will in the pilot's seat. The flying was great fun and helped us to understand the bigger Tundra experience. We felt very well taken care of: I felt bad when you had to fly back to main camp to get the cooking utensils we left behind! Fourth, the richness of the wildlife: We had repeated encounters with lots of animals. More than I expected. We enjoyed a broad spectrum of life on the tundra; from ancient man to ancient mammal to the family of wolves, we enjoyed and witnessed an incredible ecology happening around us. And, we helped preserve the land for others by your staff's approach to witnessing all the richness of the Tundra life with out disturbing it. Fifth, our fellow adventurers: you guys attract great people. Our group was fantastic! A fascinating mix of interest, intellect and humor not to mention the sensibilities of the staff. A writer, a naturalist, a seasoned arctic traveler, a crusty independent business man all mixed together added real spice to evenings around the fire or under the moon. Well, I could go on, but, I don't have to tell you about fun, and you can't possibly print this much from us as it stands. We miss you guys and talk about you regularly. Our friends know you all by our story telling. Please edit this as necessary. You have our unbridled endorsement. God be with you, all."
Court & Meg
Clara (year 2000)
Seattle Washington
"What a truly remarkable place! Just to stand atop a lakeside esker in the Barren lands imparted a sense of opening a doorway to the beginning of time. Whoever coined the phrase "The Land Where God Began" sure hit the nail right on the head. I believe people generally are drawn to natural places for their scenic grandeur and majesty. I found these qualities in my Barren lands experience, but more subtly and even spiritually. I found them in the sheer vastness of sky and space in a land untouched and pristine. They also were evident in the colorful tapestry of the rich and vibrant springtime floral display. It was as though tucked away in every nook and cranny of the tundra, just around the next corner or over the next rise was a special treat awaiting the curious and adventurous: the majestic peregrine falcon perched high atop a ridge; the lone grazing musk ox bull encountered round a corner; plovers nesting on the tundra; wolf pups at play outside their den; the cross fox that investigated us as thoroughly as we observed him while hiking to the village ruins; and, most unforgettably, the adult wolf that practically walked into out laps while we were perched on the side of Daoust esker. Then there was the rich variety of plant life so uniquely adapted for survival in the harsh and extreme environment -- who would have believed the tundra harbored arctic versions of orchids, laurel and even rhododendrons? Equally as impressive at the place were your staff and facilities. Terry, Dave, Craig, Will, Naomi and Jen were simply wonderful. I found them always attentive, instructive and helpful, but never intrusive. It always was obvious that each of them shared your great affection and respect for the Barren lands, its wild inhabitants, and its history and culture. I both congratulate and compliment you on your choice of staff personnel. The Whitefish Lake base camp facilities were complete and most enjoyable (I have not been so well fed since my submarine service days in the early sixties). My sincerest thanks, Tom, for the Barren lands experience you provided. I look forward to my return!"
Steve
Willeumier
Bloomfield, MI
" I have waited a week since it takes time to
fully understand what we were expose to at your camp on the Upper Thelon
River [Wolves, Musk-ox & Gyrfalcons]. Friends asked me what was it
like on the tundra and I was searching for the right words. After a while
I realized that only one word could truly describe our week on the
northern tundra, the word is "Awesome". When we arrived to Whitefish Lake,
we did not know what to expect. The picture we draw in our minds was not
even close to the awesome experience we had. Minister Stephen Kakfwi
recommended Great Canadian Ecoventures to us in 1999. It was in response
to my request to have the most qualified guide for viewing wildlife in the
North West Territories. Minister Kakfwi's recommendation was very
accurate! With Great Canadian Ecoventures we have experienced and explored
the tundra they way it should be done. Not as strangers but as part of
nature, with patient and respect for the land and its wildlife. You taught
us the history of the tundra, its unique way of life and shared with us
your love for this magnificent place. We appreciate your rule of the
tundra: Do not disturb wildlife, it's their world, we are just temporary
visitors. I wish more people could understand this basic philosophy. And
because of your philosophy we have seen more wildlife than we thought we
would see. Your staff spared no efforts in making our stay both
interesting and comfortable. The personalized service they offer is
exceptional and their knowledge of the terrain make them the best guides
we have been out with. A perfect place cannot stay perfect for long. Greed
and human nature can destroy even the most remote areas like the Thelon.
My family, me and my friends would give you the support you need to keep
the tundra and the Thelon the way the are today, the way nature meant it
to be, beautiful, full of life and undisturbed. Please provide us with the
names and addresses and we will start a letter campaign to protect this
sacred place. With all our best wishes"
Cpt. Aaron & Ilana
Forell
Brooklyn, NY
"I was a part of the 'Dance with Wolves trip in July, 2000, and I had a fantastic time. This was due to a number of factors. Firstly, Tom and his staff were friendly, helpful and extremely generous. They went out of their way to ensure that I, as well as the other guests, were happy and getting out of the trip what we specifically wanted. This tailoring of the trip resulted in a fair amount of extra work for Tom and his staff, but from what I could tell resulted in a group of happy and satisfied guests. The staff were also extremely knowledgeable about the local flora and fauna, which meant that they could successfully answer most of the questions posed to them from what seemed to be a rather learned group of guests. I also enjoyed meeting and talking with the other guests and staff. Most seemed extremely well traveled, and had interesting stories to share about their various adventures in the Canadian North and elsewhere. The base camp on Whitefish lake was luxurious considering it was hundreds of miles from civilization, yet still in keeping with an eco-tourism destination. The surrounding landscape was incredibly beautiful. I would recommend a 'Great Canadian Ecoventures trip to anyone with a love of the outdoors and an adventurous spirit."
Dr.Grace
Tavares
Toronto, Ontario
"We were glad we got to spend 2 weeks with you and your top-notch staff this August and September on Whitefish Lake [Dance with Caribou]! Staying there for two weeks provided us with opportunities to watch the tundra change from green and brown to spectacular red, yellow and orange. We also experienced about every type of weather, from rain and wind to snow showers to clear blue skies. We got some great photographs of the Northern Lights which we saw every clear night and of mirror reflections on the esker kettles. The time you spent telling us about the land, its history and people and your experiences there, gave us an even deeper appreciation of this magnificent wilderness. Being on "The Barrens" with Inuksuit, musk ox, caribou, wolves and even a wolverine, was truly unique. We especially appreciated the efforts you and your staff made to "go the extra mile" to provide us with the best opportunities, including the overnight stay at South Camp where we got to see several herds of caribou at the water crossing just outside of the camp. "Stalking musk-ox from the plane and on the ground was unforgettable! The staff was "awesome". They made great meals and were terrific guides and naturalists. Thanks for a great trip!! We are looking forward to our 3rd trip with you to "the Barrens!"
Steven and
Suzanne Barger
Cincinnati, OH (1999 &2000)
"Thank You Great Canadian Ecoventures - it was a wonderful journey of discovery [Wolves, Musk-ox & Gyrfalcons]. The Thelon shared some of its gifts with me and captured my heart. Great Canadian Ecoventures made this possible. The upper Thelon valley still beckons to me. My thoughts often return to this wild and hauntingly beautiful place. Memories are vivid and indelible. I will never forget the experience of arctic summer life, throbbing with intensity and framed in a vast unending landscape-a myriad of colors and textures blending sky, land and water where the footprints of man are thankfully few. It was a privilege to travel with you all. The food was delicious, accommodations comfortable and the great staff was capable, considerate and sensitive to my needs and our surroundings. All this added up to make an unforgettable trip that far exceeded my expectations. If you follow your heart, dreams do come true. Thanks Great Canadian Ecoventures."
Kathleen Roberts
Wild Thyme Farm
Adirondack Mountains
"Tom, I am sitting down to write this three weeks after returning home. I still have yet to come down from the natural high that I was on during my time on the tundra. The haunting beauty of the Barren lands will stay with me always. Having traveled extensively across much of North America in my work as a nature photographer I can honestly say that my time spent in the Barrens was photographically the most productive two weeks that I have ever spent in the field. The diversity and beauty of the landscape, combined with the ever-present wildlife made for an experience that will be deeply cherished for the rest of my life. The day that I watched and photographed Caribou, Musk Ox and an Arctic Wolf all within the span of less than two hours was a day that only happens in the wildest dreams of a nature photographer. The last day of staking out a water-crossing for caribou was an unbelievable day! I wasn¹t settled in for five minutes before a herd of a dozen caribou swam across thirty yards away. After a period of about three hours I saw not less than five crossings ------ the largest herd had nineteen caribou! That herd crossed twenty five feet away from where I had positioned myself! I would have called that day the thrill of a lifetime if I had not had the experience of stalking Musk Ox on the day when the fall colors peaked. ---- I don¹t think I have had a day in my life when I felt more alive than I did while stalking Musk Ox across the tundra. Returning to base camp after a full day on the tundra and watching the Aurora dance across the sky into the wee hours of the morning was an experience that I will never forget. The trip was truly amazing! The land is unforgettable! The experience was priceless! Your guides are the absolute cream of the crop. Base camp had all of the amenities that anyone could want in such a remote location. I hope to return to the Barren lands with you and your staff in the very near future. It is with deep gratitude that I say thank you for providing this incredibly unique opportunity."
Scott
Schrader /
Photographer
Helotes, TX
"Tom: The Upper Thelon is still working its way through my system, even after having some fabulous experiences in Nunavut with different kinds of animals: seals, polar bears and beluga whales! The trip was beyond all my expectations [Great Summer Caribou Migration]. Once I got used to really being outside again, I was completely overwhelmed with the esker-anchored landscape, the flying and wildlife watching: face-to-boss with a musk ox, watching wolves and pups, catching lake trout and stalking a herd of 10,000 caribou. These were the highlights but it was the composite tone of the place and the experience that made the trip stand out among others. I was feeling like this well before we saw the caribou. I loved the camp and being out on the barrens-I even love saying, "when I was out on the barren lands" to people. It makes me sound so adventurous! The truth is your trip, camp and tour make this stunning land and its animals accessible to people willing to let their minds and spirits compel them to a place perhaps more wild and epiphanic than they could have predicted."
Catherine
M. Senecal/
Journalist
Winnipeg, MB
"Every time Vicki and I talk now we wish we were back on the tundra with everyone. We had an absolutely amazing time. It really was a life changing experience for myself because it put my life into perspective. The little things we worry about in the city don't really matter. My pictures turned out really well thanks to Terry and Roger. I will send some to you. Words really are limiting because my experience was more of the "feeling type". We took part in the physical things like fishing for trout, walking for a few kms., talking about the land and the history we saw and finding pieces of interesting nature but nothing could replace the feeling of the crisp air on your cheeks, drinking water from the lake, walking barefoot in the sand, stalking a caribou, listening to the silence and being alone. This trip was really inspiring for me because it made me want to be creative again (something which I have little time for in my other life). I went for a walk one evening and sat and listened. I heard my heart beating and turned around to see a sic sic staring at me....what a cutie. Tell Tom I will send him a book of mushrooms and will flag the ones I picked to eat. I am not able to identify the fungus that was pink and appeared as if it was bleeding. Terry will know this one. I will have to take the picture to a mushroom expert at the U of A or a mushroom club. You have a great group of people working for your company and everyone made the trip that much more amazing. The stories told to us about the land and meeting Richard added so much more to the experience. When people ask me if I would go back I just say "when are we leaving." Say hello to everyone and give Tom a big extra big hug from me. He deserves many hugs... and really enjoys them too! I can still hear his laugh and it still makes me want to giggle.... Best to you all!"
Maria
Lobreau
Tofield, AB
"Hello Tom & gang, I wanted to send you a quick message a let you know again how grateful we are for participating in your 'Dance with Caribou' trip. Both Maria and I had a wonderful time and we hated to leave. To be completely honest, I wasn't exactly sure what to expect on this trip and I was not anticipating so much history and culture involved. This was a very pleasant surprise and I loved the way you incorporated this history into the hikes. It made the day much for interesting and meaningful. The camp was very comfortable and the food was excellent. The luxury of having a shower each day so far from civilization was a bonus. Both Terry and Craig were great. Now that I have experienced the trip first hand, it will be much easier for me to sell the trip to my clients and give them a better idea of the level of hiking involved, accommodations etc. The Thelon region is truly an amazing place and I think every Canadian should visit this part of Canada at least once. I can understand why you have adopted it as your home and I hope it stays as untouched and wild as it is now. The idea of the area being invaded with mining equipment makes me shutter. Please thank Terry and Craig and Naomi for all their help and service and thank the caribou and musk ox for being so cooperative. Also, thank you for offering to put us up for an extra week, we would have loved to stay, if not for all of our responsibilities back in civilization."
Vicki Storey
The Great Canadian
Adventure Co.
Edmonton, AB
"Spending 8 days on the tundra [dance with Caribou] was an experience of a lifetime. About your guides, we have two words:
WHAT COMMITMENT! Okay, more than two words...They were there whenever needed them, and, not, when we didn't. When we expressed our goals for the trip, they made sure we achieved them. Brigitte ,in particular, was very sensitive to our goal for a Christmas card shot, and she bagged it for us at the Inukshuk. To be out in the middle of 'nowhere' and to be so comfortable, added immeasurably to an already astounding experience. Tom, I came to the wilderness hoping for deep star-filled nights, but I was not at all prepared for the profound silence. Silence so consuming, so rewarding, so alluring to an city dweller. I basked in it. Tom, we really appreciate your speedy response to our initial inquiry last winter. Also, keep up the good work on your website. We are always referring to it when friends ask us about the Northwest Territories. We wish all our friends could join you on the tundra. Warmest regards,"
"I was fortunate to have my uncle, "Tundra Tom" come to Wisconsin last winter. After looking through his photo albums of pictures taken from his camp at Whitefish Lake, I was in great awe of all the beautiful things that could be seen there. With some great encouragement from Tom, I decided right then and there, that this would be a trip of a lifetime. My only hesitation was that I would probably be taking this trip by myself. By the time I was on my trip, I realized I was not alone at all. I loved meeting my fellow adventurers and getting to know them and hearing their stories of past adventures. I only spent a week with these people, but they became like family. I felt very sad when we parted. Here are some highlights from my trip: 1) I got to witness a major seasonal storm. Uncle Tom said it makes you appreciate the land, because the climate makes the land what it is. 2) I almost had a musk ox kiss my feet. I was sitting on a rock very still as a curious bull was coming right towards me, slowly but surely. Luckily my trustworthy guide made the bull think twice and turn away. 3) The northern lights were most amazing. I never imagined myself sitting outside in the cold for three hours with a smile on my face the whole time. 4) Observing wolves for a couple of hours was most unexpected. It was neat knowing the two adults, as well as some pups, were also observing and keeping an eye on us. I got to hear them howl! The pups too! 5) I must also mention the great food up there. I have never eaten so well. as far as well rounded healthy meals. At least not since I was a kid living at home. In all, I got to see lots of caribou, wolves, arctic hare, musk ox, tundra swans and an eagle. Its a different kind of excitement knowing your seeing these animals out there in the middle of nowhere, compared to seeing these animals near civilization. I was correct when I thought this would be a trip of a lifetime. I will always be grateful for the opportunity to have experienced this beautiful land of solitude. I can see why the barren lands have captured my uncle's and my grandpa's heart and spirit. Thanks for a trip of a lifetime. Tundra Tom's niece,"
"The tundra, yes the tundra: I didn't think any place could affect me the way mountain environments have affected me, but when I first visited the Serengeti I found I was wrong----and I found I was wrong again when I experienced the barren lands. In both places one feels the true vastness of the earth. When one stops chattering and listens to the sighing of the winds sweeping across the tundra, something inside you carries you back into the far reaches of time when we all carried spears. When it is quiet it is so quiet and the spaces are so great that you feel the earth turning slowly on its axis. This sense of antiquity and the immensity of space are, to me, a fundamental aspect of the tundra. Adding wildlife to the tundra brings it all to life. Without wildlife, one could dismiss any environment, no matter how beautiful, as merely being scenery. The tundra has it all! Nuts and bolts: The camp, staff, food all exceeded expectations. I don't think this is an experience for everyone. I think some yuppie-types have a hard time understanding what a miracle it is that this operation even exists. I think you need to be commended for changing and adapting plans according to changing conditions, but some urban people will always have difficulty dealing with that. Tundra Tom: Now there is a nut case! But a likable nut case. Probably, if I were a young man, I would consider going to the barrens and throw my life away, like I 'm sure many people think you have. It is a life worth living."
Lee
Mann /
(1998, 1999, 2000)
Northwest Photo
Arts
Sedro Wooley, WA
"Do I dare admit that I first thought the name of our trip, "Dance with the Caribou," was marketing hype? After all, when you've seen "Dances with Wolves," read Farley Mowat, and then come across a name like Tundra Tom, what's a California photographer to think? Afterwards, I summed up my experience with the following journal entry: "Tundra Tom doesn't promise more than he can deliver, but he does deliver more than he promises. He never said I'd see a wolverine or step outside my tent beside a lake reflecting the northern lights and a crescent moon as wolf howls pierced the night. He never hinted how much more lasting my memories would be of stalking totally wild animals through thoughtful interaction with their environment and perceptions, compared to making equally close photographs of habituated animals from my car window in Yellowstone or Yosemite. Nor did he suggest that my experience in the Far North with him might affect my life back home. Just after I returned, I ran a steep trail in the hills above San Francisco Bay where the deer I sometimes see have always sprinted off when I get closer than about 150 feet. When I spotted a doe and fawn up ahead, I raised my arms and did the slow caribou dance that Tom taught us to do on open ground. To my amazement, the deer just stood there until I got six feet from them, when they politely stepped off the trail. I had no regrets about not having a camera with me. The experience was complete and mine alone, imprinted in my memory with far more detail and significance than film could ever record. In the Barrens, however, I shot nearly a hundred rolls of film of wildlife and a landscape that perfectly fit Farley Mowat's glowing descriptions (despite his fanciful elaborations of his own exploits). Flying in the Beaver we saw summer plains "thronged with life and brilliant with the colors of countless plants in bloom" and lakes "whose very blue depths are flanked by summer flowers and sweeping green meadows." On the ground, I could hardly hold back from laughing the first time I saw middle-aged men and women bending over, raising hands high alongside their heads, waltzing slowly across the tundra with a partner in tow to form a four-legged silhouette with a rack of antlers. When the caribou lowered their heads and returned to grazing, I was amazed to be able to get photos that I never would have imagined were possible on the open tundra. Calves were especially prone to leave their mothers and come walking up to check out the new guy on the range with those three carbon-fiber horns sticking out of that thing that made clicking noises just after the horns reversed to touch the ground. I doubt that the great majority of animals we stalked and photographed had any recognition of us as human. They may not have ever seen humans before. The stalks I think of as being the best were not necessarily those that produced the closest photographs, but those where the decision to retreat was ours and the animals remained where they were, unaffected by our presence. What more could you ask for a great wildlife experience? Well, how about good food, comfortable tents, and hot showers. We had that too!"
(The late)
Galen & Barbara Rowell
(1997, 1998, 2000)
Mountain Light Photography
Emeryville,
Ca
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"Great Canadian Ecoventures has opened the gateway to the amazing and austere beauty of the boreal Thelon country. Skilled and accommodating guides provided creature comforts throughout our photographer-customized trip. The rugged landscape not only offered unparalleled natural beauty, but an incredible diversity of wildlife. I valued my time spent in Thelon country as a visit to one of the most impressive scenic locations in all of North America."
Art
Wolfe /
Photographer
Art Wolfe, Inc.
(1999)
Seattle, WA
"Ever since I was a lad I wanted to visit the famed Barrenlands of Canada's Northwest Territories and this past summer I had the opportunity to travel to Yellowknife then on to Tundra Tom's camp at Whitefish Lake. With 35-years experience photographing in Alaska I thought I had seen it all...but the Barrenlands are different than "our" tundra. Truly the Barrens are one of the mystic, incomparable places on earth. The crew at Whitefish was outstanding, some of the best people I have ever spent time with outdoors. The food was great and the camp comfortable. Photography resource leader Steve Maka was outstanding. Arctic hares, gyrfalcons, wolverines, white wolf, caribou, musk-ox, and foxes...all great photo subjects, indeed. However, for me, it was the land itself that was so magical. Granite outcrops piercing dry tundra...good walking to isolated eskers that offered evidence of Inuit and Dene' use going back hundreds of years. Crimson bearberry, gold willows and snapping auroras overhead...what colors!!!! I'll never forget the low mist on the tundra, the twisted spruce "forest" by camp, and the clear waters that provided us with several meals of wonderful lake trout. Thanks, Tundra Tom, for such a great trip and crew. Hopefully I'll be back soon...with some friends!"
Tom
Walker / Photographer
Denali Park, AK (1999)
"Sharon and I want to thank you for a truly remarkable experience on the barrenlands." As you know, Sharon had no experience with this type of trip and arrived with some apprehension. Prior to our week with you, her outdoor adventures had been limited to a few nights of tent camping. She is now asking when we can go back up to see the caribou! The big surprise for me was the considerable value added by yourself and the guides, Bill & Dweeb. While I have been traveling the north for the past twenty years with friends, I never thought there was any reason for the added expense of a guide. The week at Whitefish showed me how wrong I have been. Your knowledge of the land, people and animals made the Thelon a place we will always remember. Tom, thank you again for a wonderful trip. We were very comfortable in your camp. The wolf, musk-oxen, the fox kits, birds and stark beauty of the barrens will certain bring us back.. I am interested in a Thelon canoe trip, and Sharon needs to 'Dance with the Caribou' - so we'll be in touch!"
Bill & Sharon
Kurtz
Winter Park, FL (1999)
"The time I spent with you at the Whitefish lake certainly was one of the highlights of my trip around the world.The Red Beaver, the breathtaking nature, all the fish in the untouched waters, the superbly organized camp, the friendly and helpful guides, who would certainly look good in any European restaurant and last but not least you, my friend, offered an unforgettable experience in the wilderness to me (e.g. I specially remember the elegant diving from the Cessna). I would like to thank you from the bottom of my heart for this great adventure and hope to visit you and your Tundra soon again. I wish you all the best!"
Markus Badertscher
Bern, Switzerland
(1999)
"I knew it was going to be great as the pace of my life slowed immediately when I alighted from the float plane and my feet touched sand at the base camp. Incredible guides do it all, from explaining the botanical wonders to baking mouth-watering biscuits. I've never roughed it so pleasantly. They were marvelous at helping me to have the experiences I most wanted. Moments alone in the barren expanse connected me with granite intensity to the endless sky, the loping caribou, the crystal lakes, the fox kit and the smallest lichens. I was part of it all. Months later, that mellowness is still with me..." "I think I'm changed forever."
Diane Vasarkovy
Lacey, WA
(1999)
"We were among those who enjoyed time at your Whitefish Lake Camp August 27 to September 11, 1999 -- two GREAT weeks, and you have requested our evaluation of that experience. Hospitality started when we arrived at the airport. We were picked up promptly and even given a bit of a tour around town to get the lay of the land, then introduced at the office, then delivered to our lodgings, all appreciated. The staff in Yellowknife was helpful and friendly. The staff at camp was great, too--helpful, cheerful, interested, fun, knowledgeable, available, and apparently indefatigable, though I'm sure all their responsibilities must have made them plenty weary at times. But they seemed to be enjoying events and circumstances as much as we! That's good PR! Our tent living quarters in camp were comfortable, sturdy in winds, and convenient--in fact, quite grand compared to the pup tents we're used to using! I did yearn for a quick peep hole to be able to see outdoors--to check weather, sky, the scene, who's going by etc. without having to unzip the doorway. I noted that some tents had little zip windows, but when the tent is partitioned for two parties, the window can't be in both halves. Photographer Steve Maka added GREATLY to our experience. His gentle way, his eagerness to teach, his interest in people provided us photography-oriented folks with fringe benefits. I was tremendously impressed with his approach, knowledge, and generosity. Food = excellent! Did we EAT! Brigit came up with super dishes, as did the other leaders-turned-cooks. In such circumstances, food is tremendously important. To be on hand for two weeks and have poor eating would sure dampen the experience, but that was not a problem with that kitchen crew! We ate with relish. Program--Well, we've been in love with tundra life for a long time, and we fully enjoy photographing it--plants as well as animals, non-living things as well as living--so we "had a field day." The first week we mostly took in activities with the group, scouting which places we wanted to return to for more concentrated photography and study. The second week, though we did join the group some, we concentrated more on our own pursuits. Each way was absolutely delightful, and the relaxed option, the independence, of being able to do either was positive and appreciated. The beauty of the area, especially the fall tundra itself, the silence, the opportunity for solitude, the magnificence of the autumn flora, the excitement of coming across musk oxen on our own near camp, the glory of Northern Lights, the 360 degree views, the oneness with the earth--these and many other things gave me complete happiness. Several times I found myself alone, sitting on esker sand, soaking in the surroundings, watching, listening, all with a big grin of sheer pleasure and contentment on my face! The tundra does that! I concur with what Barbara has written. It was indeed a great experience."
Thomas & Barbara
Hallowell
Kennett Square, PA (1999)
"Absolutely outstanding trip down the Clarke River this year. After four great trips with you to the Barrenlands, I still can't get enough of this place. Looking forward to exploring another corner of this magnificent wilderness next year. See you again next summer Tom!"
(the late) Larry Kwincinski
Woodside, CA (1989,
96, 97, 99, 2005)
"We have canoed, camped and photographed nature all 42 years of our married life. Great Canadian Ecoventures was a highlight. The "Barrens" were a beautiful carpet of many colors of miniature arctic plants, lichens and mosses. Wildlife was abundant and the solitude and isolation wonderful. Facilities 230 miles from civilization were remarkable. The tents, meals, and warm showers were a luxury. The main cabin with a library of books on the Thelon Region allowed us to absorb even more about this beautiful arctic area. The staff worked hard to provide us an outstanding time and their vast knowledge gave us an experience in the far north we will treasure."
Hugh
& Joleen Clark
Harbor Beach, MI (1999)
"It's hard to believe a few short weeks ago we were enjoying the cool end of summer temperatures of the tundra. From two of your return guests I would have to say anyone missing the late season is missing the beauty of the tundra. The "fall" colors were magnificent and added that special something to landscapes, macros, and mammal images. It put a whole new perspective on beauty, peace and serenity. The addition of being able to see the Aurora borealis was the finishing touch. I would encourage anyone having previously visited in the spring or summer season to consider a return in the fall season for this dramatic contrast."
Vance & Anita MacDonald
Las Vegas, NV (1999,
2001)
"Ah, tundra memories! The utter silence.. The calls of the loons. A double rainbow over camp after the rainstorm during supper one night. The red fox kits tumbling and playing with each other, running over my boots, sniffing at our tripods, even as adults smaller than my Maine coon cats back home. Dave dreaming about the grizzly bear. Bill's funny giggle. The aurora. The shadow of the floatplane skimming over the tundra polygons as we flew to where the musk oxen were. The gyrfalcon who perched on the bath house. The musk ox bull snorting as he chased off the marauding wolverine so fast that I only got two shots of the wolverine. The sun breaking through the clouds to shine for ten seconds just on the second inukshuk, the golden one, leaving the tundra expanse behind it in darkness. One wolf track on the sand not covered over by caribou tracks. Only Tom Walker saw the wolf, and even he got no pictures. Sweet blueberries. Scolding sic-sics; a fat prairie dog look-alike holding his ground for full-frame portraits even with my short lens. A hot shower during the big storm. Fresh trout for dinner. The varying hare by the bath house who only came out when it was too foggy to photograph him. Bridget finding spear points. The big wolf den, "Etthen Eldehi" graves. Soft-spoken Terry. And caribou! Caribou on the top of the ridge. Caribou swimming across the lake, the cow with her calf behind. Caribou milling around behind the ridge with only their antlers visible. Caribou charging across in front of the boat house, and charging back the other direction a few hours later. Caribou running easily over the hummocks... I want to go back..."
Charlotte Richardson
Hudson, MA (1999)
"I remember our week with you very fondly. Few Canadians would believe such a landscape exists unless they could see it with their own eyes. The vastness, the peace, the life! Our thanks to Bill our guide for tailoring our week to our needs so thoughtfully. He also taught us to "see" in a whole new way. A memorable time. Thanks again!"
Catherine Piggot
(1999)
Yellowknife, NWT
"Well after more then 50 years of canoe tripping on my own (I'm 72 this month) I was not expecting much adventure in a guided canoe trip.. Wrong! You can't take the adventure out of the Canadian Barrenlands - especially with a guide like Dweeb. I'm a retired Fish and Game employee from California and after 35 years of traveling the back country after wildlife, I appreciate someone who has memorized the country and knows the good wildlife areas. I appreciate the trip made seeing and photographing wildlife a high priority, over trying to get so many miles in each day. You and Diana were really very well organized and thoughtful too. Even Pizza and drinks on our return ! A great job very well done. Thanks everyone for helping me keep some adventure in my life!"
Jim
White (1999)
Auburn, CA
"The float plane flights to and from the river are simply stunning. As a geologist, I reveled in each sighting of a different feature of tundra or continental glaciations. The Clarke River, with its variety of raptors, its moving water, and its spectacular cliffs, is a true delight. We only wish there had been more of it. We recall many wonderful things about the Thelon: the numerous wolves and Arctic hares; the Thelon Bluffs, with its fast water and incredible view; the tundra flowers and glacial geology; the archaeological sites near Beverly Lake, where the Inuit used the geology to help them harvest the caribou; and especially those marvelous prehistoric beasties, the musk oxen. These were all experiences of a lifetime. And the Prospector Inn is the absolutely perfect place to stay before and after the trip!"
Bob
& Pamela Mueller
St Petersburg, FL
"The Thelon is truly one of the great rivers of this fine country. The memories that flood back are many and varied and too detailed to capture in a short note. Some of the highlights - the distant white sand ridges of the Warden's Grove area shimmering in the lazy heat of an Arctic summer afternoon, clumps of simply gorgeous mauve "river beauties" decorating the gravel beaches, a golden eagle cruising by for a better look fifty meters above the canoe, the wind borne barnyard odor of the fly ravaged musk ox bedded down in the willows some 20 meters away, the flash of that first trout at the side of the canoe, fresh grizzly tracks in the damp sand, the awe inspired by presence of ancient tent rings and the flight of imagination in trying to bring their builders back to life, a wolverine checking out the intruders into his land from a convenient hole in the river bank, the stunning panoramic vista northeast of Ursus Islands, and the list goes on. It was good, and the memories are well embedded..."
Ray Riley
(1999)
Thunder Bay, ON
"We thoroughly enjoyed our wilderness experience on the 'Dance with the Caribou' trip. It was an awesome feeling to be so isolated and at the mercy of God's nature. Your staff was great - they showed their knowledge of the plants, animals and area history. Will, our pilot actually stripped to his long johns and jumped in the lake to push the plane in so we wouldn't get wet! Brigit fixed special dishes for me that accommodated my allergies. After the trip was over, Diana even ran from the restaurant to our B&B to wake us so we could see the northern lights! We got excellent footage of musk-oxen, a wolverine, and caribou as close as the lens on our camcorder could handle! It's great to have pictures - but it's the memories of the trip of a lifetime that will last!"
Charles & Joanne
Foote
Grand Junction, CO (1999)
"The Clarke-Thelon river trip was one of the most interesting adventures I've ever taken!" Spending three weeks in the wilderness with people who share the same enthusiasm for the great outdoors is awesome. The natural environment is humbling. One of the main attractions in the NWT for me was the array of bird species: there were golden eagles, peregrine falcon and Lapland longspur. In addition to the native birds we were fortunate enough to see musk oxen and tundra wolves! Our activities included canoe tripping, plane trips to and from the tundra; plus fishing & dining on Arctic grayling and lake trout. The variety of outdoor entertainment allows for individuals to experience nature in its finest element. The trip challenges a person to test the limits of civilized living and 'get back to mother nature'."
Marty Conlin (1999)
Ex-NBA Miami Heat
Watermill, NY
"Trees, trees, more trees, and then nothing. Barren. The word describes well the view as we fly over the tundra. No houses. No buildings of any kind. And no roads, at least none made by humans. Then, what's that? A caribou migration trail! There's another. And look - there's a caribou! See it? Musk ox at 10:00. Spotting wildlife continues for an hour as we make our way to camp. No ordinary collection of tents this camp. Hot showers. Need I say more? In time one learns how well-placed, laid out, and equipped camp is. Only someone with a deep understanding and appreciation of this magical land could have set up this camp. Sunrise. A good, hot breakfast. Plans for the day: hike to a historic site, boat trip to another locale, aerial recon for musk ox. An excellent dinner with wonderful company. Sunset. The northern lights. And there's more. On some nights Tom reads from accounts of trappers and others who ventured to this region years ago. A genuine treat. This is wilderness. The real thing. We are strangers to the wildlife here. From the cover of a few spruce trees I see a caribou crossing the river. I reach for my big lens. Seconds later I realize it's my pillow. It's late at night weeks after returning home. Yes, the trips Tom offers are just as I and others describe. An experience to remember for life!"
Larry
Bowman
1998,1999 & 2002
Richland, WA
"Our expedition was a great success with mostly beautiful weather, beautiful scenery, lots of wildlife, fabulous paddling and tough paddling when it was windy. I'm busy editing slides and writing magazine articles. Once stuff is published I'll try to remember to send you some copies. Canadian Geographic is looking at it right now and I'm sending it off to some other magazines in Europe and Asia as well. I've already got two slide shows booked and several more in the works. This was my first trip on the Barrens but it certainly will not be my last. I'm already busy planning next year's expedition, retracing another George Back route. This one he did with Franklin in 1821 but unlike Franklin, I plan on not starving. I made a deep connection with the Barrens this summer and feel the need to explore more of it. I finally understand what people have been talking about! I'm pleased with your services, your generosity and your willingness to accommodate us."
Paul Van Peenan /
Writer
Maple Ridge, BC (1999)
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"Here is what I want to tell you about our upper Thelon adventure: You run an outstanding camp. We felt very well and sheltered in the tent you provided, we enjoyed the cozy library room, the excellent food and the feeling to be surrounded by loneliness and vastness. The ramblings with Terry & Dweeb was great! Once, together with Terry, we investigated the lichens - the tundra was in colour of the fall with big tufts of gold-brown colored moss, wide patches of purple-red bearberry leaves, the bight yellow-red dwarf birches and willows; the velvet-like gray reindeer lichen, and everywhere in between the cranberries, which I gathered with pleasure. Next day we had a fancy dinner with turkey and everything else! One day, our dream came true when you took us with your plane to search for musk-oxen. And we found them! These fellows stood before us like relics from a past age, the long black winter hair shining in the sun. We strolled for hours across that esker - and words can't describe the beauty of the landscape which will always be on our mind. This day we were lucky! The trip is over and great memories remain. You delivered what you had promised and therefore we thank you. The Thelon has touched our hearts and we will return again!"
Dr. Suzanne & Franz
Sveceny
Vienna, Austria (1998)
"..A rare opportunity to camera hunt wildlife at a truly wild place.. As photography guide, I took to the field with folks who had a variety of cameras and skill levels, from point & shoot to real professional. They all got some great pictures! And while Tom's rule - and mine - is that clients get the photo opportunity first, I still got great images. You can't miss: you're so far from "civilization" that you get to work with animals who probably never saw a human being before. While still very wary, because they share the curious nature of their white-tailed deer cousins, many of the caribou would approach you if you used Tom's 'dance with the caribou' technique, and sometimes, if you simply got low to the ground with a wind advantage. Applying other camera hunting techniques was also a lot of fun and, at times, well worth the effort. I learned some of these by reading about how the original people hunted caribou in Tom's well stocked camp library. The library and other amenities of the base camp, including some great home-cooked meals, provided us the ability to make the most of a truly one of a kind experience. Because Tundra Tom sets up his camps at strategic locations along classic caribou migration routes, we had the chance to work daily with a number and variety of caribou. That enabled us to really learn about this fabulous species. The images that we got included not only full frame portraits but also glimpses of caribou behavior not often recorded on film. Pre-migration groups of bulls came down past the camp every day. The first day they were as wary as any of their kind. The second day they visited knowing that humans occupied the site, and you could work much more closely with them. It often happened that they returned for a third day before moving on. And then, with a slow and respectful approach, you could get portraits with a wide angle lens without bothering them! Tom told me that this was not always the case, which is part of why he worked out the 'dance with the caribou' that is so effective on the open tundra. But when they wake you up gnawing on last year's dropped antler 15 feet from your tent, how hard can it be? In addition to the caribou, we photographed musk-oxen, Arctic hare and several species of birds, not to mention the Northern lights. A final comment: Tom's guides Terry and Dweeb are the best wilderness guides I've ever known. If I ever got lost in the bush, I'd want to have one of them come looking for me. nCatch them in the good light!"
(the late) Bill
Silliker, Jr., (1998)
The Camera
Hunter
Saco, ME, USA
"The Clarke/Thelon was my trip-of-a-lifetime! Beginning with the stunning flight to the tundra from Yellowknife, continuing with the most beautiful canoeing that I have ever done on the Clarke, and finishing with the history and wildlife of the Thelon; I am overwhelmed how lucky I was to have this adventure. Dweeb's guiding was outstanding, his commitment, expertise and hard work led to many highlights: ancestral chipping stations, tent rings, caribou fences, views of gyrfalcon and golden eagle chicks with the fresh kill in the nests; the wolf eating the still-flapping goose, heart-pounding closeness to musk-oxen; frolicking wolverine young; and of course - great cornbread fish and chocolate cake! Remoteness, 24 hours of daylight, tracks everywhere, and birds, birds, birds were all reminders that we were guests in the unspoiled natural world. Thanks Tom, for making this wonderful experience happen!"
Dr.
Bill Hunter (1998)
Victoria, BC
"The camp on the Thelon headwaters was well run and the staff worked hard to make sure that everyone was comfortable and well fed. Opportunities for interesting excursions by plane or boat or foot were provided, but the best part was that the wildlife and brilliant fall colors were just steps away form the camp. Galen & Barbara were a special bonus. 'Dance with the Caribou' was a wonderful experience which we hope to repeat."
Dr.
Lloyd McCarthy & Mrs. Mary McCarthy
Barrington, IL
(1998)
"What an incredible place! I have wonderful memories of the tundra, eskers, animals and northern lights. Going through my photos I thought you might enjoy these an share my memories as well. Being back a work in the 'real' world it seems so long ago that I stood upon the sand and felt the power of the place. It is beautiful and haunting - compelling. My memories are never far from my thoughts."
Judi Stern
(1998)
Westmount, QB
"That was sure great example of generous Canadian hospitality that you and your team lain on myself and son Bart during our recent participation on your 'Dance with Caribou' program. Tom, you are one fine bush pilot, a good teller of tales of the far North, and a genuine hero for having the tenacity to organize and operate these camp sites in the wilderness so that people like myself and my friends can access the remote areas. Terry & Duane are two of the finest wilderness guides with which anybody could hope to hook up with. They know the territory. They work well with people and - amazingly - they manage to cook up some fine meals! Diana, your fixed-base operator and hostess she is a sweetheart! She extends great hospitality and is most helpful to newcomers to Yellowknife. Your gust photographer, Bill Silliker, Jr. could not have been a better choice. He worked closely with me one morning and those photos that I shot that day are among the best. I started out with a desire to spend some time among migrating caribou. - a scene which I have never before experienced. Spending time at your camp on the upper Thelon River sure fulfilled that dream. Once in your camp, caribou were simply everywhere - and you and your team made it all possible. Thank you!"
Roger Haney
(1998)
Omaha, NB
"I often judge my wildlife trips by how long it takes me to step back into reality. I was stunned the first day back, depressed the second and speaking normally in a week. I loved being up at Whitefish Lake. My only regret is that I did not swim in those clear waters, but I certainly bathed my soul with the fresh air, fabulous wildlife and wondrous landscapes. I also keenly enjoyed your staff. The trip was an 'A plus'. I don't know how we could have improved it except to let me move in permanently. It was very difficult stepping into that plane and returning to Yellowknife."
Nancy Gibson (1998)
International Wolf
Center
Minneapolis, MN
"Thank you so much for the most wonderful trip of my life. I would recommend it to anyone. Exploring the tundra and eskers, observing caribou, musk-oxen, wolves and gyrfalcon was fantastic. Dave Mech and Nancy Gibson from the International Wolf Center were tireless in their efforts to make sure our group saw wolves. Your guides were also wonderful - they were very knowledgeable and knew exactly where to go to see wildlife. My only problem with the trip is its length. It should be two month instead of one week. Maybe next time I'll do just that ! I would highly recommend the IWC or any of your other trips."
Ted Spaulding
(1998)
Bloomington, MN
"Thanks for the unforgettable experience you afforded us in your 'piece of heaven' in the Thelon River valley. My expectations were met and surpassed, as I saw Arctic wildlife in abundance. It was a special thrill for me to see wolves in the wild was a thrill beyond words. Stalking herds of musk oxen, dancing with the caribou and enjoying the Arctic ecosystem was icing on the cake. The ambience at basecamp on whitefish Lake was magical, the scenery awesome and the facilities superb. As if this were not enough, your staff was incredibly friendly, well trained / knowledgeable, and sensitive to our needs /wants (great cooks, too). All in all it was just one great time - one I'll always cherish. I'm going to hardily recommend it to all my friends. As keepers of the wilderness - keep up the good work protecting the beauty and innocent integrity of the wild, and to promote its magical spirit. The Arctic has a profound influence on those who visit it. My own Arctic experience was inspiring, humbling and motivating. Walking amongst the Arctic wildlife in their own domain is an incredible feeling. The time I spent on the Thelon lounging with the musk oxen, hanging with the wolves. dancing with the caribou is about as good as life gets."
Randy Swanson
(1998)
Grand Rapids, MI
"I went to the Arctic in search of caribou. I left with my soul recharged. There are few truly wild places left on this earth - you make it possible for all of us to have the rare experience of the wilderness in a way that is safe, comfortable, and easy. Along with photographs of caribou, musk-ox, ptarmigan, and the tundra in full fall splendor, I came away with a greater understanding of this great land and its history-- the character of the trappers and the migratory Indians, the difficulty of surviving on the "barrens" year round. This unique experience has changed me in a subtle yet significant way. I shall always treasure it. Thank-you!"
Marty Maxwell
(1998)
San Francisco, CA
"Thank you and your wonderful staff for the friendship and expert support during my two unique wilderness adventures this year! I was on 'Wolves, Musk-ox & Gyrfalcons' in June, and 'Dance with Caribou' in September. Photographing animals in the beautiful green setting of springtime and in the orange-red colors of autumn was very productive. The different times of the year provided the opportunity to see different animals as well. The wilderness camp was very comfortable and the food was unbelievable considering the remote location. Your knowledge and respect for the barrenlands, and the native people and the stories of pioneers of the Arctic added greatly to my enjoyment of the trips. You do a wonderful job making this remote and harsh environment accessible and comfortable to adventurers like myself."
Jim DeMilita /
Photographer
Mercer Island, WA (1998)
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"Thank you for the wonderful experience in the upper Thelon! I thoroughly enjoyed observing the wolves, musk-oxen, caribou, and other wildlife in the area. The beauty and solitude of the barrens and the eskers are unmatched. And in the middle of it all, it was great that your camp was so comfortable and your staff so accommodating. I can't wait to return next summer!"
Dr. L. David Mech (1997 & 1998)
International Wolf Center
Ely,
MN
"While at the Upper Thelon Basecamp, fall color reached its peak and the esker and tundra became covered with mesmerizing tapestry of red, green and gold. With a mixture of hues and textures, the carpets of leaves, mosses and lichens provided me with an endless supply of macro photography subjects. It was a perfect backdrop against which to photograph the caribou, musk-ox & other tundra wildlife"
Irene Hinke-Sacilotto
(1997 & 1998)
Osprey Photo Workshops
Baltimore,
MD
"Many thanks for the wonderful trip you ran for us! We had a great experience and were able to capture some exciting Arctic images on film. I think you run one of the best wilderness camps I've seen. Filming is an extremely demanding enterprise and your understanding of that process is greatly appreciated. Also it is a pleasure to work who cares so deeply about the land and the native people. When someone has such a deep respect for the Arctic environment it makes all the difference. I enjoyed your extensive knowledge of geology and natural history. I wish you all the best in the future!
John
Howe / Senior Producer
'The Snow
Wolves'
7 KUED
Public Television (1996)
Salt Lake City, UT
"One of the last great adventures, a remote outpost in the wild, far from civilization. Tom is a barrel of laughs and a dedicated guide. This is a rare opportunity to see the Arctic wolves up close.."
Bill Volkmann /
Producer
'Wild Things' TV (1997)
Hollywood, CA
"Tom, Thanks for the fantastic time on the barrens! I have now spent some time in various parts of the "barren ground", and have seen more wildlife with you than anywhere else. Wolves, musk oxen and caribou in one too-short stay, as well as grizzly sign and more birds than I can remember made it an incredible experience. In addition, your knowledge of the human history and pre-history of the area gave it all a context that went well beyond the ' been there, done that, got the T-shirt' mentality that seems to be the current wave. I appreciate your involvement in and love for this unique environment, as well as your inexhaustible store of knowledge about it. I'll see you back in the north next year - Cheers!"
Ken Brunton (1996
-1997)
Morgan Hill, CA
"Just wanted to let you know how much I enjoyed the 'Dance with the Wolves' trips that I was on this past summer. After several days of photographing the wolves, I still remember the first wolf I saw up there. The other wildlife that was up there was also a plus. The food and accommodations were outstanding, especially when you take into account the logistics of where you are when you're in the NWT. I also enjoyed the time I spent at the upper Thelon. The barrenlands have a sense of beauty and history, and I enjoyed you sharing them with us. I must marvel again how you can supply the food, lodging and hot showers in such a remote area of the north truly amazes me. I thank you for a very enjoyable trip!"
Matt Patterson /
Photographer
Spring, TX (1997)
"Our third trip for my father and I, a first for my wife, was as exciting as our first trip. back in 1989! Our hike back to Steele Lake was one we will not forget. Picking blueberries at sunset for pancakes in the morning, and an 'Arctic' pizza- what a treat! The eagles and falcons were more abundant than previous trips and the walks out on the tundra were exciting and provided many new photographic experiences and challenges. The quiet of an Arctic night is something you never forget. Dickson Canyon '98??!!"
Lou & Barbara Gardella
Jr.
Garfield Heights, OH (1989, 1997)
"Helen and I want to thank you for the unforgettable experience we had in 'caribou country' . Thousands of square miles of tundra, lakes and rivers untouched by neither a village, a road or a powerline. For Europeans - and especially for us - the vastness is incredible. The silence was stupendous! I most enjoyed the sound of silence from the top of the hill [behind camp] during sunrise or sunset. We most enjoyed the remoteness of the camp and the stark beauty of the area. The walks on the tundra with Terry, the stalks of musk-ox with you and Joan - great! The photo sessions with Galen Rowell were once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Galen was a great photo guide. We learned so much - not just about the photography but also his life's' philosophy. The brilliant colors of the tundra by day and the northern lights by night painted impressions that we will long remember. Thank you Tom, for your stories of old - hearing the history of the Northwest Territories - learning about the upper Thelon and the native persons was truly a spiritual experience for us. The basecamp was comfortable, food was great - (but the next time I want the cookies for breakfast)! We both hope to explore the Arctic with you and your staff again in the near future."
Elena & Ervin
Skalamera
Trieste, Italy (1997)
"We're in the process of getting "back into the rat race" and we don't like it. We'd rather be stalking wild animals...they are more predictable than some of the people we're dealing with! We think back fondly on our recent trip. It was a great experience and we would recommend it to others. We have a lot of good memories, supplemented by about 20 rolls of film! Considering we were "roughing it" in tundra 200+ miles from civilization, we were very comfortable. It was great to be able to take hot showers, a luxury not always available in some of our past adventure travel experiences. The food was surprisingly good with lots of variety and fresh ingredients. We felt a sense of camaraderie with you and your staff. Miles and Dorothy were friendly and helpful throughout our stay. Terry was a good leader, cook and companion. We can understand why you love the upper Thelon so much. We feel fortunate to have been there during fall foliage with truly magnificent colors. We don't often have the opportunity to view wildlife in its natural habitat so the musk ox stalk was one of the highlights. Michael especially liked being told to "get on your knees and crawl!" We also enjoyed getting close-up to caribou and sik-siks. Your knowledge of the area helped us to really appreciate the history and culture of the native people. You and Terry reading from the local history books and our final visit to the Etthen Eldehi chief's gravesite were very moving. Feel free to incorporate any of the above comments as a testimonial. Here's hoping our paths will cross again!"
Paula Sonnino & Michael
Sterling
Stamford, CT (1997)
"Just a short 'thank you' and let you know how much I enjoyed "dancing with the Caribou" - the barrenlands is an experience in itself! As promised, many excellent photographic opportunities presented themselves, and there were also numerous other events and happenings that leave lasting images and delightful memories. The evolution and resulting geography of the sand eskers, the multitude of lakes, the northern location which resists growth; yet life merrily increases its pace to accommodate itself to the seasons. The summer colors and shades of green that suddenly changed the landscape to crimson reds and yellows to complete a magnificent autumn picture. The archaeology that provided clues to the history of the Inuit and Dene' and later - the Etthen-Eldehi people; all whom once lived here on this land - their home. The tent rings - the diggings; ceremonial gathering sites, ancient graves to more recent Chipeweyan trapper cabins. The mornings with the sun rays penetrating the morning mist on the lake - the sky crossed by magnificent billowing clouds passing on and by - often leaving the entire huge sky a clear, azure blue. The setting sunsets unpredictable in color, ranging from pale yellow to brilliant reds. Then from the heavens, putting on their nightly display of stars and constellations. More often than not the northern lights capped off the displays of night. The caribou energetically feed on mosses as they cross the tundra in their magnificent winter coats and huge racks! Two curious yearling caribou racing, gracefully and swiftly over the hummocks past us to get down wind - much to the concern and consternation of the mother! The musk-ox having a nap, lazily chewing his cud; basking in the noonday sun. The white wolf loping up the slope - pausing on the ridge for a last look back before disappearing over the horizon. And the birds. Raptors rising in the thermals, tundra swans on the azure waters; ptarmigan with her brood of six young creeping among the yellow foliage' the geese honking late in the dark of night passing high overhead on their long journey south. So many adjectives come to mind - Colorful, magnificent, beautiful, awesome, incredible, mysterious, romantic, adventurous, solitude and silence. All found in this vast wilderness - and all this with hot & cold running water! Much success Tom, may your passion and love for this land prevail and never diminish.."
George Nagel (1997, 1998,
1999, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 & 2006)
Hamilton,
ON
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"A total escape from civilization, Canada geese and brant flocks flying overhead and resting along the shores, magnificently racked caribou near camp, and occasionally, passing through it; the tremulous magic of loons calling in the dark of night before falling asleep; the intense anticipation of knowing the musk oxen herd is just over the top of the ridge; Arctic hares surprise springing out of nowhere, blueberries, blueberries and still more blueberries to satisfy rapacious appetites; the howling of wolves both during the day or night; being unfortunate enough while out fishing for lake trout to see a barrens grizzly run down and actually catch a Canada goose! It's feathers went flying everywhere while we watched from the safety of the boat only some forty yards away.; A fully racked bull caribou etched ink-black against the full moon silvered lake behind it; two spectacular northern light displays; the first with the three adulating and wavering bands of northern lights overhead and firing down shafts of light of varying brightness into our midst. A many 'wow's' experience if there ever was one! Want to get away from it all and have great stories to relate about it, then Tundra Tom's base camp on the upper Thelon River should be on your travel and must visit - agenda."
Ann & Ken Shesne (1996) Red Lodge, MT
"It can truly be said that the experience of being on the 'Dance with the Caribou' trip was a life-changing adventure. It certainly was much more than a trip or a vacation! To be able to live in the barren lands for a week, with the environment, the animals, the history and the archaeology and the other people was something I'll not only remember for a very long time, but has modified my thinking about ecology and the environment. The goal was to obtain photographs of caribou and musk-ox. This goal was accomplished - in spades! This goal however, was overshadowed by the total experience of the barren lands and what it offers the visitor. The accommodations were much more than I anticipated, fun meals and even hot showers. Thank you all for the truly memorable time!"
"Ever since I was a little boy I had been dreaming about the great Canadian wilderness. As a Norwegian who spends most of my spare time in the woods or mountains, after years of dreaming it finally was time to make my dream come true. A good fiend of mine who has done several trips to the NWT told me about Ecoventures. Tundra Tom then told me that the Thelon River would be the answer to my dreams, and helped me to set up the trip. I must say that the Thelon River was the answer to my dreams! It was truly a strange land, where you can travel for weeks without traces of other people. This is a country so beautiful that it is almost impossible to describe it. The eskers, and the area around the river and lakes, and huge groups of animals without fear of man. During our trip down the Thelon, we met hundreds of musk ox, caribou, and a accountable number of different birds. We also met moose, white wolves, and the funny but angry squirrels. Fishing was like I had dreamed about, and I don't think there is anyplace like it in the world. The most fantastic thing about this land I think, is the colors. Sitting by the campfire after a long day in the canoe, and just watching the sky with millions of changing colors gives a peace that only true wilderness can give. The barren lands makes impressions that will last a lifetime! Before I left Canada, someone told me that the Barrens is a land that you will either love or hate. I truly loved it, and recommend Great Canadian Ecoventures to anyone who has a wilderness dream to make true. I had to travel half way around the world to get there, but I will definitely be back."
"Well Tom, what do you have in store for me this coming summer? Does it get better every visit? I can't imagine! To tell you the truth, when I booked your trip to see the white musk-ox I did not expect we would actually find one. How could we find an animal so rare? I thought it would be like searching for the Holy Grail! I did however, have such an exciting trip with you the previous year [Dance with Caribou] that I figured that it would not matter - I knew the experience would be sensational regardless! It still amazes me whenever I think about it that we actually found a white musk ox in that massive expanse of land!. Then to land the airplane and to slowly stalk up within 100 feet of the herd - wow! Tom, that animal was special. I knew it when it stood proud ahead of the herd: a white musk-ox leading twenty black ones?! Lets go back and see that animal again!"
"Our paddling trip through the heart of the Thelon country of the central barren lands re-defined 'wild' for me: 300,000 square miles of tundra, lakes, and rivers untouched by by neither a village, a road or a power line. The silence was stupendous, the vastness inspiring. I have watched wildlife from Greenland to Siberia, and from East Africa to the Himalayas, but had never seen nature in such an innocent state - almost totally free of the influences of both civilization and aboriginal people. It was a journey back to the time when wolves, bears, caribou and musk ox owned the earth."
"A heartfelt thank you for a wonderful week! I loved the trip from the moment we left Yellowknife. I couldn't believe how beautiful the ice looked from the air - that was the first time that I had seen the big lakes with the ice in. From the ground looking at the ice up close I was struck how each crystal shimmered and shone. There was so much that I enjoyed! I especially loved the 'ladies' trip with Joan looking for musk-ox. It was so much fun being dropped off with the plane, and then scouting stalking, and scrambling along on our tummies to get above them; then to look right down at them from a high bank! We couldn't have been more than 15 feet from the three of them - what a privilege! Thank goodness the wind held and we could observe them for more than an hour, munching, rolling, butting heads, and drinking from the creek. Michael Francis was a great photo guide. I learned so much, not just about photography, but also about the birds. He was so patient and helpful, and made the scouting so interesting. It seemed like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to have access to Michael; get pointers, and photograph the gyrfalcon coming and going from her nest. Another great day trip was the one I did with Joan down to the next esker. Joan made the hike fun and interesting, by pointing out the chipping stations, and how the natives would herd the caribou into the narrows for a successful hunt. I felt that we were lucky to find the merlin and see her on the nest, plus the Arctic hares and the Ptarmigan! Tom, you are a very special guy. The rambles in the evening under the midnight sun, hearing the history of the Northwest Territories, Whitefish Lake and the native peoples were truly a spiritual experience for me. One has to be there to understand. The base camp was comfortable, food & fishing were great - what more could one ask? Thank You, Thank You!"
"Thank you Tom, for your humor, stories of old, and especially for sharing your special place on this earth; Joan, for a thrilling boat ride, your enthusiasm, and your warm love of rabbits; Terry - for the most delicious cup of hot cocoa on a cold and rainy hike; and Lloyd - for surrounding me with the spine-shivering primitive sound of musk oxen. It's a rare privilege to experience a land so remote and harsh that humans no longer exist there. Being with the animals in their natural world brings a renewed respect for life and helps me to fins a bit of peace within - thank you for that..."
"Thank you again for the superb trip! I am still dreaming of it (Search for the Legendary White Musk-ox) After my third trip with you, it was one of my most impressive trips! And there is another reason to thank you - my trousers are moving slowly to the south! But that has nothing to do with you food - which was excellent - the reason may be the missing German beer (which we call liquid food - but that is not the reason why I like it) Thank you for the loss of 2 kg.!"
"Our thanks to all of you for making our tundra time really wonderful ('Tundra Eskers Leisure Basecamp')! Don't know which part we liked the most - way too many superlatives come to mind to describe the clean air, water, reindeer moss, the lichens in my boots, the great company. Tom, the quiet magic of the Barrens did settle in - and for that I am most grateful. Even after a quick drive back to Minneapolis (we arrived Sunday evening at 6:00) the calm is still with me. Ahhhh. I know that everyone asks you to stop by while your in their city, but we really do expect you to come over to Minneapolis when your visiting family and have dinner or whatever with us. You may not recognize us in our city clothes, but we'll wear name tags. Warn us in advance and we'll not wash our hair for two or three days. Again, our thanks to each of you. The experience was very, very unique and satisfying."
"We are not quite sure what it is that continues to lure Jean & I back to the barren lands. Is it the animals - the caribou, the grizzlies, the musk-oxen, the fish, the birds, Or is it the people? Or is it the real beauty and color of the land? Or is it really just the entire being of the North? Whatever it is - and it must be some of all of these things to every visitor - it really got to us this summer when we spent two delightful weeks with Tundra Tom's Great Canadian Ecoventures on the 'Dance with the Caribou' . We had visited the barrens before and wanted to return, but the first time we did not appreciate it's depth and background. It took Tom's efforts to do that. He runs a fine camp! We 'tented' in a wood floored roomy structure with beds and a rug on the floor! We ate well, and enjoyed salads, steak, roast chicken, freshly-caught lake trout, just-picked blueberries, cranberries and mushrooms. Many meals and walks were accompanied by Tom's readings of local history. In the way we became not only aware of what we saw around us; but what had taken place years before. And we loved it! We enjoyed Andy's early morning photo sessions, we enjoyed Terry's fishing trips; we enjoyed Lloyd's musk-ox stalk; we enjoyed talking with the other guests; we enjoyed exploring an old abandoned trappers cabin with Joan; we enjoyed our solitary walks, we enjoyed the beautiful plants, we enjoyed the northern lights and the violent displays of weather. we recommend this trip to anyone who is interested in the beautiful eskers of the barren lands."
"Just a note to let you know our group had an incredible visit to your upper Thelon base camp on the 'Dance with the Caribou' trip! The tundra was in full autumn color and it was remarkable to have big bull caribou grazing and sleeping only yards from camp! Plus, we had never seen northern lights of such intensity! The memory of watching (and photographing) their brilliant display while wolves howled in the esker hills behind us will stay with us forever! Your camp operations were exemplary - every bit as good as the fabled safari camps of Africa. Having propane heaters in each large, floored tent and a hot shower in the bath house were unexpected pluses. And we certainly didn't go hungry - the food was great and in sufficient quantities to stuff a musk ox! Speaking of muskox, stalking those Pleistocene relics was a high point of the trip. Your knowledge of their habits was what made our close approach possible. Probably most importantly, your love and dedication to this, one of the last and greatest wild areas of the planet was appreciated by all on the trip and made the difference between a good trip and a truly unforgettable one! Keep up the good work!"
"Being my first time in North America was for two weeks with Tundra Tom in the Northwest Territories. It was an unforgettable experience! My primary reason for going was to see and photograph the white tundra wolf. I was not disappointed. In one evening we saw eight white wolves - four adults and four pups at a fairly close distance. Fantastic! In my county - Norway - the wolf is highly endangered - only 5-10 individuals left. After being one week in the East Arm of Great Slave Lake, we moved to the open tundra, the Whitefish Lake area, a beautiful esker with lots of wildlife. More wolves, a single grizzly track, ducks in every pond, and nesting white gyrfalcons in the spruces. In Norway the gyrfalcons would leave the nest and fly around alarmed when we approach a nest; but here they ignored our presence. Why this difference? I think in contradiction to the Norwegian falcons, the birds out here on the Canadian tundra have maybe not seen humans before. So why should they fear us? It was thrilling to know that I was 400 kilometers from the nearest town, that trout were just waiting for me in the many lakes. I guarantee that I will return to this wilderness one day!"
"After six trips with you, I'm beginning to feel like a veteran! Each trip has given me a deeper understanding and appreciation for what true wilderness really is. Every adventure has provided me with new opportunities and bushel baskets full of great memories. Last August was the best, as I was able to accompany a young twenty-year old man who i am fortunate enough to call my son. Seeing his eyes when he caught sight of his first musk-ox; catching huge lake trout or just sharing a laugh with me made me realize just how blessed I really am. The memories from that week will always be treasured. Thanks for playing a part on our journey - we'll be back!"
Jerry Blakselee (1985, 86, 87, 89, 90, 1996) Neenah, WI"What a great week - ( 'Dance with Wolves) ! Great adventures of the midnight sun. Hiking all night, Arctic wolf across the gully, a fox walking us from 20' away, raptors galore - canoe trips and flights by day - a trip not to be missed!"
"Just wanted to let you know what a wonderful trip Mike
and I had this past summer at Whitefish Lake. It is the first time I can
honestly say that as much as I love fishing, the other parts of the trip
were just as impressive. Seeing musk-ox, caribou and eagles, etc. will
stay with me for the rest of my life. Having you take our group out to the
tundra that first night and explain it's history made me appreciate being
there even more. To fish in this pristine wilderness with all the comforts
of home (nothing better than a hot shower) and catching that 40 lb lake
trout and catching grayling in the Thelon river made this a very special
experience that I will never forget. I have enclosed two color photos of
the big one that died not get away. Again, thank you for everything, it
was a wonderful experience."
"I want to thank you for your support on my Thelon river trip this summer. I was impressed by your logistical services, but even more by your personal involvement and advice. Your knowledge of the land, it's history and pre-history is probably unparalleled. Even more impressive was your obvious love and appreciation for this unique environment. Your enthusiasm and your willingness to share your knowledge made a big contribution to my personal enjoyment, and to the safety and smooth logistics of my own trip. As for the trip itself - I was overwhelmed. The esker country around Whitefish Lake, the oasis of the Thelon valley, the open tundra of the big lakes; each had their own character and their own logistics and their own fascination. There was always wildlife: caribou, musk-ox, moose, wolves, swans, geese, ducks, cranes, loons, huge lake trout, pike and grayling; and too much more to list them all. There was human history: sometimes incredibly wrenching such as the Hornby cabin; and the constant silent witness of the original peoples, their camps and their hunting stations. What stays with me most though is the land itself. There is a scope and a feel to it; a freedom like no place else that I know. I'm already planning my next trip(s) back to the tundra, and I'll count on your support. I'll stay in touch!"
"Just wanted to thank you again for having me on another trip to the Northwest Territories with Great Canadian Ecoventures. The 'Dance with the Wolves' trips for which I was the photographer / trip leader went without a hitch. Not only did we see all of the animals as advertised, but many others as well, with many great opportunities to get nice close-up photos. In my many years of photographing 'wild' wolves, this was without doubt the best opportunity I've had to get photos of wolves in both taiga and tundra. I can still remember the thrill for us all when we got our first look at the four young wolf pups out playing in the open! What a sight! I can't wait to go back. Oh yes, I shouldn't fail to mention that once again I'm amazed at how you can manage so far from anywhere to supply such good food, comfortable beds, and a hot shower! See you again in 1997..."
"In 1984 I was looking for an extended class II canoe trip or backpacking expedition to satisfy a need for remote adventure, when thumbing through a guidebook on rivers of North America I read a brief description of the Thelon. It intrigued me, but the expense seemed overwhelming. Eleven years later I was again looking fore a soul-satisfying trip, and this time the Thelon pulled me so hard I gave in. I was thoroughly delighted at how well the 265 miles of pristine canoeing exceeded my expectations. I was very impressed with the caliber of the guides. To Karen Pick (guide #1) thanks for your trust in me, your sensitivity to group dynamics, your hard work, your phenomenal meals. To Cindy Maki (guide #2) I was uplifted by your encouragement, trust, consistently cheery demeanor, keen intuition, and spirited friendship. The Clarke / Thelon holds many pleasant surprises that pictures cannot convey - surprises in the form of mosaic patterns in the rocks, the heavenly clouds that almost touch the earth; the strikingly clear water; the south Pacific beaches; the monster grayling; the sensuous tundra swans; the prehistoric musk-oxen; and the limitless terrain expanding the limitless spirit. I have traveled to the world's most remote corners; and was more connected to the Clarke / Thelon than to any other location. The ecosystem is so unlike anything I have ever encountered including the Alaska tundra. I feel eternally blessed for the experience."
"I just wanted you to know how much I enjoyed the canoe trip and the week at your base camp. The amount of wildlife that we saw was unbelievable! The high point for me was when we observed two wolves for almost an hour during our lunch time. There was always the feeling of being in true wilderness, where the presence of man has not left its mark. I feel like I will be friends for the rest of my life with the other clients and the two guides on our trip. Steve at the base camp was also great. It was almost worth the while just to meet him. Thank you for a memorable experience! I think all of us will be heading to the Arctic again."
where we are and how to get to us
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